Papa rellena

Ingredients

Potato shell

• 1.5 kgfloury yellow potatoes
• 1egg yolk
• 2 tbspcornflour
• salt
• white pepper

Filling

• 400 gminced beef
• 2onions, finely chopped
• 3 clovesgarlic
• 2 tbspají panca paste
• 1 tspají amarillo paste
• 1 tspground cumin
• 1 tspdried oregano
• 2 tbspraisins
• 8black olives, halved
• 2hard-boiled eggs, chopped
• salt and pepper

To coat and fry

• plain flour, for dusting
• 2eggs, beaten
• oil, for deep frying

To serve

• sarza criolla: sliced red onion, lime, ají, coriander

Directions

1. Boil the potatoes whole in their skins until completely soft, about 25 minutes. Cook them in their skins so they do not take on water. Wet mash will not hold a shape and the papa rellena falls apart in the oil.
2. Peel them while hot and press them through a ricer. A masher works the starch and makes the mixture gluey, and a ricer keeps it light and dry. Spread the riced potato on a tray and let the steam escape for 10 minutes. Steaming it dry is the step that decides whether the shell holds together, and it costs ten minutes.
3. Work in the egg yolk, cornflour, salt and pepper while it is still warm. It binds the mash and helps the shell survive the fryer. Chill the mash for an hour, which makes it far easier to handle. Meanwhile fry the onions slowly until deep golden, about 12 minutes, then add the garlic.
4. Take the onions properly dark rather than merely soft, because that sweetness is the backbone of the filling. Add both ají pastes, the cumin and oregano and fry 2 minutes. Add the mince and cook until browned and dry, then stir in the raisins.
5. Cook the filling until genuinely dry. A wet filling steams inside the shell and splits it open in the oil. Take it off the heat, cool it completely, then fold through the chopped egg and olives.
6. Add the egg and olives to the cooled filling rather than cooking them, so they stay distinct. The filling must be cold before you assemble anything. Put a spoonful of filling in the centre and close the mash around it completely. Seal it with no cracks and no thin patches, working with wet hands, and check the whole surface.
7. Shape each into a smooth pointed oval, like a rugby ball, which is the traditional form. Chill the shaped papas for 30 minutes to firm them. Dust each lightly in flour, then dip in beaten egg. The flour and egg coating gives a thin crisp skin and protects the shell.
8. Heat the oil to 180°C (355°F) and fry two or three at a time for 4 to 5 minutes until deep golden. Do not crowd the pan, which drops the temperature and makes them greasy.
9. Turn them gently with a slotted spoon rather than tongs, which can pierce the shell. Drain on a rack and serve hot with sarza criolla piled on top. Soak the sliced onion for the sarza in cold water for 10 minutes first, which takes the harshness out while keeping the crunch.

Technique

• Peruvian yellow potatoes are floury and dry and make the best shell.
• They can be shaped ahead and refrigerated for a day before frying.
• The same filling is used for causa and empanadas.

Substitutions

• Any floury potato, such as Maris Piper or russet.
• Chicken or a vegetarian mushroom filling.

Variations

• With chicken or seafood filling.
• Baked rather than fried, which is lighter and less good.
• Made small, as a canapé.

History

A Lima street and lunch-counter staple, eaten with sarza criolla onion salad.

Frequently asked questions

What is Papa rellena?

Papa rellena is a street food from Peru: mashed potato shell stuffed with beef, olives and egg, then fried. A Lima street and lunch-counter staple, eaten with sarza criolla onion salad.

How long does Papa rellena take to make?

Papa rellena takes 45 min plus 1 hr chilling of preparation and 30 min of cooking. The recipe makes 8 pieces. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Papa rellena?

Yes, within limits. Any floury potato, such as Maris Piper or russet. Chicken or a vegetarian mushroom filling.

What is the most important thing to get right in Papa rellena?

Boil the potatoes whole in their skins until completely soft, about 25 minutes. Cook them in their skins so they do not take on water. Wet mash will not hold a shape and the papa rellena falls apart in the oil.