Mulgikapsad

Ingredients

Meat

• 800 gpork belly or shoulder, in large pieces
• 300 gsmoked pork ribs or bacon

Cabbage

• 1 kgsauerkraut, drained but not rinsed

Grain

• 150 gpearl barley

Pot

• 1onion, chopped
• 2 tbsplard or oil
• 1 tbspsugar
• 5juniper berries
• 2bay leaves
• 1 tspcaraway seed
• black pepper
• 700 mlwater or stock

To serve

• boiled potatoes
• sour cream
• rye bread

Directions

1. Drain the sauerkraut but do not rinse it. If yours is extremely sharp, rinse it briefly and taste, but do not do it as a matter of course.
2. Squeeze it lightly and pull the strands apart so it is not in a solid clump. Brown the pork pieces in the lard in a heavy pot, in batches, until well coloured.
3. Brown it properly rather than crowding the pot, because that colour is most of the flavour of the finished stew. Add the onion and cook until soft.
4. Add the sauerkraut, the smoked ribs, the sugar, juniper, bay, caraway and pepper. The pinch of sugar is not to sweeten it but to take the hardest edge off the sauerkraut, and it is standard.
5. Rinse the barley and stir it in. Pour in the water, bring it to a simmer, and cover. Cook on the lowest heat for 2 hours to 2 hours 30 minutes. It needs the full two hours at a bare simmer. Check it every half hour and add hot water if it looks dry.
6. Stir it occasionally, scraping the bottom. It is ready when the barley is completely soft and has thickened the pot, and the pork falls apart under a fork. Season with black pepper and taste for salt, remembering the smoked meat and sauerkraut both bring plenty.
7. Serve hot with boiled potatoes, sour cream and dark rye bread. It is winter food, cooked at Christmas and through the cold months, and it is better reheated the next day.

Technique

• It freezes well and reheats better than most stews.
• The proportion of barley to sauerkraut varies by household and more barley makes a heavier dish.
• Juniper and caraway are both traditional and neither is universal.

Substitutions

• Any smoked pork: hock, bacon or ham.
• Pearl barley is standard; pot barley takes longer.

Variations

• Made with more meat and less barley, for a richer version.
• With a smoked hock for depth.
• Vegetarian, with mushrooms, which is modern.

History

From Mulgimaa in southern Estonia, whose farmers grew wealthy on flax in the nineteenth century; barley bulked out the sauerkraut and pork.

Frequently asked questions

What is Mulgikapsad?

Mulgikapsad is a main from Estonia: sauerkraut stewed with pork and barley groats until thick. From Mulgimaa in southern Estonia, whose farmers grew wealthy on flax in the nineteenth century; barley bulked out the sauerkraut and pork.

How long does Mulgikapsad take to make?

Mulgikapsad takes 20 min of preparation and 2 hr 30 min of cooking. The recipe makes 6 servings. It is rated easy to make.

What can I substitute in Mulgikapsad?

Yes, within limits. Any smoked pork: hock, bacon or ham. Pearl barley is standard; pot barley takes longer.

What is the most important thing to get right in Mulgikapsad?

Drain the sauerkraut but do not rinse it. If yours is extremely sharp, rinse it briefly and taste, but do not do it as a matter of course.