Iraqi biryani

Ingredients

Rice

• 600 gbasmati rice
• water, for soaking
• 2 teaspoonssalt

Vermicelli

• 100 gfine vermicelli, broken
• 2 tablespoonsghee or oil

Chicken

• 800 gchicken, in small pieces
• 2 tablespoonsbaharat
• 1 teaspoonground turmeric
• 2 teaspoonssalt
• oil, for frying

To stud

• 100 graisins or sultanas
• 80 gblanched almonds
• 80 gcashews
• 200 gpeas, cooked
• 2carrots, in small dice
• 2potatoes, in small cubes
• 1onion, sliced and fried crisp

To flavour

• a large pinch of saffron
• 1 teaspoonground cinnamon
• 1 teaspoonrose water, optional
• 500 mlchicken stock

Directions

1. Rinse the basmati until the water runs clear. Then soak it in cold water for thirty minutes. Drain it thoroughly before cooking. Preparing the saffron takes a moment. Crush the saffron in a small bowl. Add two tablespoons of warm water.
2. Let it steep for at least ten minutes. Break the vermicelli into short pieces. Heat the ghee in a heavy deep pot. Add the broken vermicelli to it. Fry it until it is deep golden brown.
3. Stir it constantly as it fries. It burns within seconds if you stop. Take it off at a deep golden colour. Add the drained rice to the pot. Stir it through the fried vermicelli. Add the stock and the salt to it. Add the ground cinnamon to it. Bring the whole pot up to a boil. Steaming the rice takes leaving it alone.
4. Cover the pot with a tight lid. Turn the heat right down to its lowest. Let it steam for about eighteen minutes. Do not lift the lid at any point. Cut the chicken into small pieces. Rub it with the baharat, turmeric and salt. Let it sit for twenty minutes. Heat the oil in a wide heavy pan.
5. Fry the chicken until browned and cooked through. Give it about twelve full minutes. Fry the diced potato until golden. Fry the diced carrot separately. Fry the sliced onion until crisp.
6. Drain each of them on kitchen paper. Add the cooked peas at the end. Frying the nuts and raisins takes care. Heat a little ghee in a small pan. Add the almonds and the cashews. Fry them until they are pale golden. Lift them all out immediately. Add the raisins to the same pan.
7. Fry them for thirty seconds only. Lift every one of them out at once. Add the fried vegetables to the pot. Add most of the nuts and raisins. Fold it all through very gently.
8. Fold rather than stir at this point. Lift from the bottom and turn over. Use a fork or else a flat spoon. Serving it is done from a platter. Pile the rice onto a large platter. Set the fried chicken over the top. Scatter the reserved nuts and raisins over. Scatter the crisp fried onion over that. Sprinkle rose water over it if you like. It keeps three days refrigerated.

Technique

• Indian biryani is layered and heavily spiced and cooked sealed so the layers stay distinct, while the Iraqi version prepares each component separately and tosses them together, with far gentler spicing and prominent sweetness from raisins.
• Broken vermicelli fried until deep brown and cooked with the rice gives colour and a nutty flavour, a distinctly Middle Eastern touch that Indian biryani does not include.
• Basra traded with India for centuries and the dish arrived along that route before being reshaped by Iraqi tastes into what it now is.

Substitutions

• Lamb can replace the chicken and is equally traditional.
• Any mixture of almonds, cashews and pistachios works for the nuts.

Variations

• Some cooks add small meatballs alongside or instead of the chicken.
• Rose water sprinkled over at the end is used in some households.
• The proportion of nuts and raisins varies widely between cooks.

History

An Indian dish reshaped by trade through Basra; the Iraqi version is milder and studded with fried nuts.

Frequently asked questions

What is Iraqi biryani?

Iraqi biryani is a main from Iraq: rice with vermicelli, raisins, nuts, peas and fried chicken, tossed at the table. An Indian dish reshaped by trade through Basra; the Iraqi version is milder and studded with fried nuts.

How long does Iraqi biryani take to make?

Iraqi biryani takes 45 minutes of preparation and 1 hour of cooking. The recipe makes serves 6. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Iraqi biryani?

Yes, within limits. Lamb can replace the chicken and is equally traditional. Any mixture of almonds, cashews and pistachios works for the nuts.

What is the most important thing to get right in Iraqi biryani?

Stir it constantly as it fries. It burns within seconds if you stop. Take it off at a deep golden colour. Add the drained rice to the pot. Stir it through the fried vermicelli. Add the stock and the salt to it. Add the ground cinnamon to it. Bring the whole pot up to a boil. Steaming the rice takes leaving it alone.