Massaman Curry

Ingredients

Paste

• 10dried long red chillies, soaked
• 4shallots
• 6 clovesgarlic
• 3cm galangal
• 2 stalkslemongrass
• 4coriander roots
• 1 tspshrimp paste
• 2 tbspcoriander seed
• 1 tbspcumin seed
• 1 tspwhite peppercorns
• 5cardamom pods
• 5cloves
• 1cinnamon stick
• 1star anise
• 1 tspsalt

Curry

• 1 kgbeef shin or brisket, in large cubes
• 800 mlthick coconut milk
• 300 mlcoconut cream
• 500 gwaxy potatoes
• 2onions, in wedges
• 100 groasted peanuts

Seasoning

• 3 tbspfish sauce
• 3 tbsppalm sugar
• 3 tbsptamarind paste
• 3bay leaves
• 1cinnamon stick

To serve

• jasmine rice
• ajad, cucumber relish

Directions

1. Toast the coriander seed, cumin, peppercorns, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and star anise separately in a dry pan until each is fragrant. Toast each spice on its own. Grind the toasted spices to a fine powder. Soak the dried chillies in hot water 20 minutes, then deseed and chop them.
2. Pound the chillies with the salt in a mortar first, then add the lemongrass, galangal, coriander root, garlic and shallots one at a time.
3. Add them one ingredient at a time and pound each to a paste before the next goes in. Thrown in together they never break down properly and you get a fibrous paste.
4. Work in the ground spices and the shrimp paste last. A mortar gives a better paste than a blender because it crushes and bruises the fibres rather than cutting them, but a blender with a little water will do.
5. Fry the curry paste in that separated oil for 5 to 8 minutes, until deeply fragrant and darkened. Fry the paste properly and patiently. Add the beef and turn it in the paste until coated. Pour in the coconut milk, add the bay leaves and cinnamon stick, and bring to a bare simmer.
6. Simmer very gently, uncovered or partly covered, for 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours until the beef is completely tender. Keep it at a bare simmer throughout. Add the potatoes, onions and peanuts and cook a further 25 minutes until the potatoes are soft.
7. Add the fish sauce, palm sugar and tamarind, then taste and keep adjusting. Massaman must be salty, sweet and sour all at once, with sweetness slightly ahead. Rest it off the heat for 15 minutes before serving. Serve with jasmine rice and a sharp cucumber relish to cut the richness.

Technique

• It is mild by Thai standards, which is why it travels so well.
• Good ready-made massaman paste exists and saves an hour; fry it just as thoroughly.
• Beef shin, brisket or cheek all suit the long cook better than lean cuts.

Substitutions

• Chicken thighs, with the cooking time cut to 40 minutes.
• Tamarind concentrate, using less of it, or lime juice at a pinch.

Variations

• Made with chicken, duck or lamb.
• Vegetarian, with pumpkin and tofu and soy in place of fish sauce.
• Massaman nuea, the classic beef version.

History

Muslim curry using cardamom, cinnamon and clove; the name traces to Mussulman, reflecting Persian and Indian Muslim traders at the Ayutthaya court.

Frequently asked questions

What is Massaman Curry?

Massaman Curry is a main from Thailand: mild Muslim-influenced curry with beef, potato, peanuts and warm spices. Muslim curry using cardamom, cinnamon and clove; the name traces to Mussulman, reflecting Persian and Indian Muslim traders at the Ayutthaya court.

How long does Massaman Curry take to make?

Massaman Curry takes 40 min of preparation and 2 hr of cooking. The recipe makes 6 servings. It is rated hard to make.

What can I substitute in Massaman Curry?

Yes, within limits. Chicken thighs, with the cooking time cut to 40 minutes. Tamarind concentrate, using less of it, or lime juice at a pinch.

What is the most important thing to get right in Massaman Curry?

Add them one ingredient at a time and pound each to a paste before the next goes in. Thrown in together they never break down properly and you get a fibrous paste.