Assidat zgougou

Ingredients

Zgougou layer

• 500 gzgougou (Aleppo pine seeds)
• 1.5 litreswater, for extracting
• 200 gcornflour
• 250 gsugar
• 500 mlwater, extra

Custard layer

• 1 litrewhole milk
• 80 gcornflour
• 120 gsugar
• 1 tsporange-blossom water

To decorate

• 100 gmixed pistachios, almonds, hazelnuts and pine nuts, chopped
• grated coconut (optional)

Directions

1. Rinse the zgougou repeatedly in cold water, rubbing between your hands, until the water runs clear. They come with pine debris and this can take five or six changes of water.
2. Grind the wet seeds with 500 ml of the water to a dark paste, then add the rest of the water and let it stand 20 minutes.
3. Strain through a fine cloth, wringing hard, to get a dark grey-brown milk. Return the pulp to the bowl, add another 500 ml water and wring again. Discard the pulp: it is all fibre and shell.
4. Whisk the cornflour and sugar into the cold zgougou milk until completely smooth, then bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly with a whisk. It thickens suddenly at around the boil.
5. Cook 5 minutes more, still stirring, until it is very thick and glossy and no longer tastes of raw starch. Pour into bowls or a wide dish to a depth of about 4 cm and smooth the top. Leave to set and cool completely, at least 2 hours.
6. For the custard, whisk the cornflour into a little of the cold milk, bring the rest to a simmer with the sugar, then pour in the slurry and cook 4 minutes, stirring, until thick. Stir in the orange-blossom water.
7. Let the custard cool for 10 minutes — pouring it boiling onto the set zgougou melts the surface and the two layers muddle — then pour it over in a thin even layer.
8. Chill 2 hours until fully set, then cover the top with chopped nuts in patterns. Made for Mouled, and traditionally shared with neighbours.

Technique

• Straining is the whole labour of this dessert. Any grit left in the milk shows up as sand in the finished pudding.
• Stir the zgougou layer constantly. It catches on the base without warning and burnt pine seed is unmistakable.
• Cool each layer properly before adding the next. Rushed layers bleed into one another and lose the two-tone look.

Substitutions

• Ready-strained zgougou paste is sold in Tunisian shops before Mouled and saves the whole extraction.
• There is no real substitute for Aleppo pine seed; without it this is simply a cornflour pudding.

Variations

• A version with a layer of whipped cream between the zgougou and the custard.
• Individual glasses rather than one dish, which is how it is often sold now.

History

Made from the seeds of the Aleppo pine gathered in Tunisia’s northern forests; it is prepared for Mawlid and exchanged between neighbours and relatives.

Frequently asked questions

What is Assidat zgougou?

Assidat zgougou is a dessert from Tunisia: aleppo-pine cream pudding layered with custard and nuts for Mouled. Made from the seeds of the Aleppo pine gathered in Tunisia’s northern forests; it is prepared for Mawlid and exchanged between neighbours and relatives.

How long does Assidat zgougou take to make?

Assidat zgougou takes 40 min plus 4 hr setting of preparation and 45 min of cooking. The recipe makes 8 servings. It is rated hard to make.

What can I substitute in Assidat zgougou?

Yes, within limits. Ready-strained zgougou paste is sold in Tunisian shops before Mouled and saves the whole extraction. There is no real substitute for Aleppo pine seed; without it this is simply a cornflour pudding.

What is the most important thing to get right in Assidat zgougou?

Straining is the whole labour of this dessert. Any grit left in the milk shows up as sand in the finished pudding.