Ärtsoppa

Ingredients

Peas

• 500 gdried yellow peas, whole
• water, for soaking

Soup

• 2 litreswater
• 600 glightly salted pork shoulder or a smoked hock
• 2onions, chopped
• 1 teaspoondried marjoram
• 1 teaspoondried thyme
• 1bay leaf
• salt and white pepper

On the table

• strong mustard
• chopped fresh marjoram

To follow

• thin pancakes with jam and cream
• punsch, warmed

Directions

1. Use whole dried yellow peas only. Whole peas keep some texture in the soup. Rinse them thoroughly in cold water. Cover them deeply with cold water. Use plenty of water in the bowl. Leave them for at least twelve hours. Skim them off with a slotted spoon.
2. Drain and rinse the peas before cooking. Choosing the pork is worth thinking about. Put the drained peas in a large pot. Add the two litres of cold water.
3. Bring it to a boil over a high heat. Skim off the grey foam that rises. Add the whole piece of pork now. Add the chopped onions and the herbs. Add the bay leaf into the pot. Cover the pot loosely with a lid.
4. Let it cook for about two hours. Stir it once every twenty minutes. Top up with hot water if it gets too thick. Testing it tells you when it is ready.
5. Lift the pork out onto a board. Discard any skin, bone and gristle. Cut or shred the meat into pieces. Return the meat to the pot now. Taste the finished soup carefully. Salted pork means it may need no salt at all.
6. Add white pepper quite generously. Add more marjoram if you like. It should be thick but still spoonable. Add hot water if it has gone too thick. Serving it is done hot in deep bowls.
7. Put strong mustard on the table. Scatter fresh marjoram over the top. Serve them with jam and whipped cream. It keeps four days refrigerated.

Technique

• The Thursday pea soup habit is genuinely widespread in Sweden and is still followed in the armed forces and in many workplace canteens.
• The explanation linking it to pre-Reformation fasting is the usual one given, though it is tradition rather than documented history.

Substitutions

• A smoked ham hock gives a deeper flavour than lightly salted pork.
• A vegetarian version omits the pork and relies on the herbs and mustard.

Variations

• Finnish hernekeitto is a close relative and is also eaten on Thursdays.
• Some households add carrot to the pot.
• A version blended completely smooth is served in some restaurants.

History

Yellow pea soup with pork eaten on Thursdays, a habit traced to pre-Reformation fasting; it is served with punsch and pancakes.

Frequently asked questions

What is Ärtsoppa?

Ärtsoppa is a soup & stew from Sweden: yellow pea soup with pork on Thursdays, then pancakes. Yellow pea soup with pork eaten on Thursdays, a habit traced to pre-Reformation fasting; it is served with punsch and pancakes.

How long does Ärtsoppa take to make?

Ärtsoppa takes 20 minutes plus overnight soaking of preparation and 2 hours of cooking. The recipe makes serves 8. It is rated easy to make.

What can I substitute in Ärtsoppa?

Yes, within limits. A smoked ham hock gives a deeper flavour than lightly salted pork. A vegetarian version omits the pork and relies on the herbs and mustard.

What is the most important thing to get right in Ärtsoppa?

Bring it to a boil over a high heat. Skim off the grey foam that rises. Add the whole piece of pork now. Add the chopped onions and the herbs. Add the bay leaf into the pot. Cover the pot loosely with a lid.