Mabanga

Ingredients

Clams

• 1.5 kglive mabanga or small hard-shell clams, in the shell
• 3 litrescold water
• 3 tbspcoarse salt, for purging

Stew

• 100 mlred palm oil
• 3onions, finely sliced
• 8garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 3tomatoes, chopped
• 1 tbsptomato paste
• 2jindungo chillies, minced
• 1red pepper, diced
• 150 mlwater
• juice of 1 lime
• 1 tspfine salt
• 1large bunch coriander, chopped

To serve

• 500 gfunge, or crusty bread
• 1lime, cut into wedges
• gindungo sauce

Directions

1. Put the clams in the salted cold water for 2 hours in a cool place so they spit out their sand, then lift them out by hand rather than pouring, leaving the grit behind.
2. Discard any clam that is broken, or that stays open when you tap it sharply on the counter.
3. Warm the palm oil in a wide pan over medium heat until it turns from opaque orange to clear red, about 90°C (195°F). Do not let it smoke or it goes bitter and grey.
4. Fry the onions 10 minutes until soft and golden, then add the garlic, chilli and red pepper and cook 2 minutes until fragrant.
5. Stir in the tomato paste and cook 2 minutes until it darkens, then the chopped tomatoes, and cook 8 minutes to a thick, oily base.
6. Add the water and bring to a hard boil, then tip in the clams all at once and clamp on the lid.
7. Steam over high heat 5–7 minutes, shaking the pan twice, until the shells have opened wide. Throw away any that stay shut.
8. Lift the clams out into a bowl with a slotted spoon so they do not overcook while the sauce reduces; two extra minutes turns them to rubber.
9. Boil the sauce hard for 3–4 minutes until it thickens and the red oil pools on the surface, then return the clams with any juice they have released.
10. Add the lime juice and most of the coriander, toss once, and serve immediately with funge or bread to mop up the sauce, with lime and gindungo on the table.

Technique

• Mabanga are the small lagoon clams gathered around Mussulo and the Luanda bay, sold live in buckets by the water; they are sweeter and saltier than sea clams and need almost no cooking.
• The shells carry plenty of salt of their own, so hold back on seasoning until the clams have opened and released their liquor.
• Take the clams out while the sauce reduces. Everything that goes wrong with this dish comes from leaving them in the pan too long.

Substitutions

• No mabanga: vongole, palourdes or small hard-shell clams work identically. Mussels can be used but are softer and sweeter and need only 4 minutes.
• Red palm oil is the Angolan flavour, but if you cannot find unrefined dende, use olive oil with a pinch of sweet paprika for colour and accept a cleaner, less earthy dish.

Variations

• Mabanga com quiabos, with 200 g of sliced okra stewed into the base.
• Grilled over embers in the half shell with garlic palm oil, sold on the Ilha do Cabo.
• Cooked with coconut milk in place of the water, a Cabinda variation.

History

Gathered in the Mussulo lagoon south of Luanda and sold by women at the roadside, they are a Luanda weekend speciality.

Frequently asked questions

What is Mabanga?

Mabanga is a main from Angola: small lagoon clams cooked with garlic, onion and palm oil. Gathered in the Mussulo lagoon south of Luanda and sold by women at the roadside, they are a Luanda weekend speciality.

How long does Mabanga take to make?

Mabanga takes 30 min plus 2 hr purging of preparation and 25 min of cooking. The recipe makes 4 servings. It is rated easy to make.

What can I substitute in Mabanga?

Yes, within limits. No mabanga: vongole, palourdes or small hard-shell clams work identically. Mussels can be used but are softer and sweeter and need only 4 minutes. Red palm oil is the Angolan flavour, but if you cannot find unrefined dende, use olive oil with a pinch of sweet paprika for colour and accept a cleaner, less earthy dish.

What is the most important thing to get right in Mabanga?

Put the clams in the salted cold water for 2 hours in a cool place so they spit out their sand, then lift them out by hand rather than pouring, leaving the grit behind.