Kremes

Ingredients

Pastry

• 500 gall-butter puff pastry, in two sheets

Custard

• 1 litrewhole milk
• 10egg yolks
• 250 gcaster sugar
• 80 gplain flour
• 40 gcornflour
• 1vanilla pod, split, or 2 tsp vanilla extract
• a pinch of salt

To lighten

• 4egg whites
• 100 gcaster sugar
• a pinch of cream of tartar

To finish

• icing sugar, to dust

Equipment

• a square tin about 25 cm, lined

Directions

1. Roll each sheet of puff pastry to fit the tin. Lay them on lined baking trays. Prick one sheet all over with a fork. That pricked sheet becomes the base and must stay flat.
2. Lay a second sheet of baking paper over it and set another tray on top. The weight stops the base rising, which would make it uneven. Leave the top sheet unpricked and unweighted so it puffs properly. Now baking them, which is done hot.
3. Heat the oven to 200C in good time. Bake both sheets for about eighteen minutes. The top sheet will rise and go deep golden. Let them cool completely on a rack. Now cutting the top sheet, which must be done before assembly.
4. Cut the risen top sheet into twelve squares while it is still on the tray. Use a serrated knife and a sawing motion. Set the cut squares aside in order. Heat the milk with the split vanilla pod in a large pan. Bring it to just below the boil and take it off the heat.
5. Let it infuse for ten minutes and remove the pod. Whisk the yolks with the sugar until pale and thick. Whisk in the flour, cornflour and salt until smooth. Now tempering, which prevents scrambled eggs.
6. Pour a ladleful of the hot milk into the yolk mixture while whisking. Add another ladleful and whisk again. Pour the tempered mixture back into the pan of milk. Now cooking the custard, which needs constant attention.
7. Set the pan over a medium heat. Whisk constantly, reaching into the corners of the pan. It will thicken suddenly after several minutes. Keep whisking hard as it thickens to avoid lumps. Let it bubble for two full minutes once thick. It should be extremely thick, like a stiff pastry cream.
8. Whisk the egg whites with the cream of tartar to soft peaks. Add the sugar gradually and whisk to a stiff glossy meringue. Now folding, which must be done while the custard is hot. Add a third of the meringue to the hot custard and beat it in hard. Fold in the remaining meringue in two additions.
9. Fold gently with a spatula rather than stirring. The hot custard cooks the whites enough to be safe. Set the flat baked base into the lined tin. Scrape the warm custard over it all at once. Spread it level with a palette knife. It should be at least four centimetres deep. Work quickly, since it begins setting immediately.
10. Lay the pre-cut pastry squares back on top in their original order. Set them down gently and do not press them. Cover it loosely and refrigerate it for at least four hours. It must be fully set before you attempt to move it.
11. Lift the whole thing out using the lining paper. Cut down between the pastry squares with a long thin knife. Dust the tops heavily with icing sugar. Serve it cold, with strong coffee. It keeps for two days in the fridge but the pastry softens.

Technique

• Cut the top pastry sheet into squares before assembly, since cutting the finished cake crushes it.
• Fold the meringue into the custard while it is hot, which is what makes it tall and light.
• Chill for at least four hours, and overnight gives a cleaner cut.

Substitutions

• Shop-bought all-butter puff pastry, which is what most people use.
• Vanilla extract in place of a pod.

Variations

• Francia krémes, with a layer of whipped cream added.
• With a caramel-glazed top layer.
• Slovak kremeš, which is closely related.

History

Austro-Hungarian coffee-house classic; Hungary’s version is prized for its especially tall custard layer.

Frequently asked questions

What is Kremes?

Kremes is a dessert from Hungary: thick vanilla custard between puff pastry, dusted with icing sugar. Austro-Hungarian coffee-house classic; Hungary’s version is prized for its especially tall custard layer.

How long does Kremes take to make?

Kremes takes 45 min plus 4 hours chilling of preparation and 30 min of cooking. The recipe makes 12 pieces. It is rated hard to make.

What can I substitute in Kremes?

Yes, within limits. Shop-bought all-butter puff pastry, which is what most people use. Vanilla extract in place of a pod.

What is the most important thing to get right in Kremes?

Roll each sheet of puff pastry to fit the tin. Lay them on lined baking trays. Prick one sheet all over with a fork. That pricked sheet becomes the base and must stay flat.