Koktal

Ingredients

Fish

• 1whole carp or bream, about 3 kg, scaled and gutted
• 3 tbspsalt
• 2 tspground black pepper
• juice of 2 lemons

Vegetables

• 4tomatoes, sliced thick
• 2onions, sliced in rings
• 2bell peppers, sliced
• 3carrots, in batons
• 4potatoes, sliced thick
• 1aubergine, sliced

To dress

• 150 gmayonnaise
• 3 tbsptomato paste
• 4garlic cloves, crushed
• 2 tbspvegetable oil
• a handful of dill, chopped

For smoking

• a handful of apple, willow or alder wood chips
• no resinous wood

Equipment

• a koktal box, or a deep metal tray with a tight lid
• a wire rack that fits inside

Directions

1. Scale the fish thoroughly, working from tail to head. Gut it and rinse the cavity out well. Cut down along the backbone from the head to the tail. Remove the backbone if you want, or leave it for structure.
2. Cut the gills out, since they turn bitter when smoked. Now seasoning it, which is done ahead. Score the flesh diagonally in a few places. Rub the salt and pepper over the flesh and into the scores. Squeeze the lemon juice over it.
3. Let it stand for thirty minutes while you prepare the rest. Slice everything into pieces about a centimetre thick. Thick slices keep their shape rather than collapsing. Mix the mayonnaise, tomato paste, garlic and oil in a bowl. Stir the chopped dill into it. It should be a thick spreadable sauce.
4. Use apple, willow, alder or another fruit or hardwood. Never use pine, spruce or any resinous wood, which tastes acrid. Soak the chips in water for twenty minutes. Scatter the damp wood chips across the bottom of the metal box. Set the wire rack above them so nothing touches the chips. Oil the rack well so the fish does not stick. Now layering, which is done directly on the rack.
5. Lay the butterflied fish skin side down on the rack. Spread half the dressing over the flesh. Lay the potato slices over the fish first. Add the carrot, then the aubergine, then the peppers. Lay the onion rings and tomato slices on top. Spread the rest of the dressing over the vegetables.
6. Put the lid on and make sure it fits tightly. Seal any gaps with foil or a paste of flour and water. Smoke escaping means the fish steams without smoking. Now the fire, which should be moderate and steady.
7. Set the sealed box on a grate over the embers. The box should be hot but not glowing. Leave it sealed for forty-five minutes to an hour. Do not open it partway through to check. Take the box off the fire and let it stand for five minutes. The flesh should be opaque and flake easily from the bone.
8. Lift the whole rack out and set it on a board. Serve it directly from the rack, with everyone taking from it. Give each person a plate and let them help themselves. Scatter more fresh dill over the top. Serve it with flatbread and a sharp salad alongside.

Technique

• Never use resinous wood such as pine, which makes the fish taste acrid.
• Seal the box tightly, since escaping smoke means the fish only steams.
• Do not open it partway through, which lets out the smoke and heat.

Substitutions

• Any large firm freshwater fish in place of carp or bream.
• A deep roasting tray with a tightly foiled lid, in place of a koktal box.

Variations

• Made with sea fish, which coastal versions use.
• Without mayonnaise, dressed with oil and tomato only.
• Cooked in an oven, which loses the smoke but works.

History

Speciality of Lake Balkhash and the Ili river, usually carp or bream smoked whole and served on the board.

Frequently asked questions

What is Koktal?

Koktal is a main from Kazakhstan: fish hot-smoked with vegetables in a metal box over smouldering wood. Speciality of Lake Balkhash and the Ili river, usually carp or bream smoked whole and served on the board.

How long does Koktal take to make?

Koktal takes 40 min of preparation and 1 hour of cooking. The recipe makes 6 servings. It is rated hard to make.

What can I substitute in Koktal?

Yes, within limits. Any large firm freshwater fish in place of carp or bream. A deep roasting tray with a tightly foiled lid, in place of a koktal box.

What is the most important thing to get right in Koktal?

Let it stand for thirty minutes while you prepare the rest. Slice everything into pieces about a centimetre thick. Thick slices keep their shape rather than collapsing. Mix the mayonnaise, tomato paste, garlic and oil in a bowl. Stir the chopped dill into it. It should be a thick spreadable sauce.