Ingredients
Pudding
- 400 gfreshly grated coconut, from about 2 mature coconuts, or 350 g unsweetened desiccated coconut soaked 20 min in 150 ml hot water
- 500 gcaster sugar
- 350 mlwater
- 10large egg yolks
- 2cinnamon sticks
- 1 tspground cinnamon
- 1wide strip of lemon peel
- 1 pinchof fine salt
To finish
- 1 tspground cinnamon, for dusting
- 2 tbsptoasted coconut shavings
Directions
- Boil the sugar with the water, cinnamon sticks and lemon peel in a wide heavy pan for 8–10 minutes, until it reaches the thread stage, about 105–107°C (225–225°F), and a drop pulled between finger and thumb forms a short thread.
- Stir in the grated coconut and the salt and cook 12–15 minutes over medium-low heat, stirring often, until the coconut has drunk most of the syrup and the mass pulls away from the sides of the pan.
- Take the pan off the heat and let it cool for 5 minutes; if the yolks go in hot they scramble instantly.
- Beat the yolks smooth and strain them through a sieve to remove the chalazae, which set into rubbery threads.
- Ladle three spoonfuls of the warm coconut mixture into the yolks, whisking hard, to temper them, then pour the tempered yolks back into the pan in a thin stream, whisking all the time.
- Return to the lowest possible heat and cook 8–10 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture thickens to a heavy, glossy paste and the spoon leaves a clean track across the base.
- Do not let it boil once the yolks are in. Pull it off the moment it holds a track; the residual heat carries it a little further.
- Discard the cinnamon sticks and lemon peel, stir through the ground cinnamon, and spoon into a serving dish or individual glasses.
- Cool to room temperature, then chill at least 3 hours until firm enough to hold the mark of a spoon.
- Dust heavily with cinnamon and scatter toasted coconut just before serving.
Technique
- The yellow is the yolks, not any colouring: this is a direct descendant of the Portuguese convent sweets, doces de ovos, remade in Angola with local coconut and cinnamon.
- Thread stage is the whole technique. Under-cooked syrup gives a loose, weeping pudding, while overcooked syrup crystallises and turns the coconut gritty.
- Fresh grated coconut gives a moist, slightly chewy set that desiccated coconut only approximates, so soak desiccated coconut first or it will drink the syrup dry and set stodgy.
Substitutions
- In place of the water in the syrup, use 350 ml of coconut milk for a richer, softer pudding, and cook it 5 minutes longer.
- Six whole eggs can replace the ten yolks for a lighter, more custard-like version, though the colour is paler and the texture less dense.
Variations
- Cocada branca, made without yolks, boiled to a white coconut fudge and cut into squares.
- Baked in a dish at 160°C (325°F) for 20 minutes to give a lightly caramelised top.
- Set in small glasses layered with mucua pulp for a sharp counterpoint.
History
Coconut and egg-yolk pudding descended from Portuguese convent sweets, brought by settlers and adapted with local coconut.
Frequently asked questions
What is Cocada amarela?
Cocada amarela is a dessert from Angola: yellow coconut pudding rich with egg yolks and cinnamon. Coconut and egg-yolk pudding descended from Portuguese convent sweets, brought by settlers and adapted with local coconut.
How long does Cocada amarela take to make?
Cocada amarela takes 25 min of preparation and 45 min plus 3 hr chilling of cooking. The recipe makes 8 servings. It is rated medium to make.
What can I substitute in Cocada amarela?
Yes, within limits. In place of the water in the syrup, use 350 ml of coconut milk for a richer, softer pudding, and cook it 5 minutes longer. Six whole eggs can replace the ten yolks for a lighter, more custard-like version, though the colour is paler and the texture less dense.
What is the most important thing to get right in Cocada amarela?
Do not let it boil once the yolks are in. Pull it off the moment it holds a track; the residual heat carries it a little further.
