Watalappan

Ingredients

Custard

• 400 gkithul jaggery or palm jaggery, chopped
• 500 mlthick coconut milk
• 6eggs
• 1/4 teaspoonsalt

Spices

• 6cardamom pods, seeds ground
• 4cloves, ground
• 1/4 teaspoonfreshly grated nutmeg
• a small piece of cinnamon
• 1 teaspoonvanilla, optional

To finish

• 50 gcashew nuts, roughly chopped
• a little ghee, for the dish

Equipment

• a heatproof dish or individual ramekins
• a steamer large enough to hold it

Directions

1. Chop the block into small pieces with a heavy knife. It is very hard and needs some force. Put it in a pan with a splash of the coconut milk. Warm it gently until it melts completely. Do not let it boil or it will catch.
2. Strain it through a fine sieve. Straining is not optional if you want a smooth custard. Let the strained syrup cool considerably. Making the custard needs care with temperature. Beat the eggs in a large bowl.
3. Beat them gently rather than whipping in air. Too much air makes a bubbly, spongy custard. Add the rest of the coconut milk and stir it in. Stir it constantly as you pour. If the syrup is hot it will scramble the eggs.
4. Add all the ground spices and the salt. Cardamom should be the dominant spice. Grind the seeds fresh from the pods. Skim off any foam from the surface. Preparing the dish takes a moment.
5. Grease a heatproof dish with ghee. Pour the custard in through the sieve. Fill it no more than three quarters full. Scatter the chopped cashews over the surface. That keeps them from sinking to the bottom. Set up a steamer with plenty of boiling water.
6. Cover the dish tightly with foil. That foil stops condensation dripping onto the custard. Set the dish into the steamer. Steam it over a gentle, steady simmer. Give it about forty-five minutes.
7. Check the water level partway through. Testing it tells you when to stop. Take it out and let it cool at room temperature. Then refrigerate it for at least three hours. Cut it into squares or spoon it from the dish. It is extremely rich and portions should be modest. Scatter a few extra roasted cashews over the top. It keeps for three days refrigerated.

Technique

• Sri Lankan Malays descend from people brought to the island during Dutch rule from the seventeenth century onward.
• Watalappan is one of the clearest surviving traces of that community in Sri Lankan food.

Substitutions

• Dark muscovado sugar can replace jaggery, though it misses the smoky bitterness that defines the dish.
• Tinned thick coconut milk works well and is what most households use.

Variations

• Some households steam it in individual clay pots.
• A version with a layer of grated coconut on the bottom is made in some families.
• Adding a little rose water is a Malay touch found in some recipes.

History

Coconut and jaggery custard brought by Malay settlers under Dutch rule, now made for Eid by Sri Lankan Moor and Malay families.

Frequently asked questions

What is Watalappan?

Watalappan is a dessert from Sri Lanka: steamed jaggery-coconut custard with cardamom and cashews. Coconut and jaggery custard brought by Malay settlers under Dutch rule, now made for Eid by Sri Lankan Moor and Malay families.

How long does Watalappan take to make?

Watalappan takes 20 minutes of preparation and 50 minutes of cooking. The recipe makes serves 8. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Watalappan?

Yes, within limits. Dark muscovado sugar can replace jaggery, though it misses the smoky bitterness that defines the dish. Tinned thick coconut milk works well and is what most households use.

What is the most important thing to get right in Watalappan?

Chop the block into small pieces with a heavy knife. It is very hard and needs some force. Put it in a pan with a splash of the coconut milk. Warm it gently until it melts completely. Do not let it boil or it will catch.