Tlayuda

Ingredients

Base

• 4tlayudas, the large dried Oaxacan tortillas, about 30 cm

To spread

• 4 tbspasiento, the unrefined residue from rendering pork lard
• or lard

Beans

• 400 gblack beans, cooked and refried to a paste
• 1avocado leaf, toasted

Toppings

• 300 gquesillo, Oaxacan string cheese, pulled into strands
• 200 gcabbage or lettuce, finely shredded
• 2tomatoes, sliced
• 1avocado, sliced

Meat

• 400 gtasajo, thin salted beef, or cecina enchilada, chorizo, grilled

To serve

• salsa de chile de agua
• lime wedges
• a mezcal

Equipment

• a comal or a charcoal grill

Directions

1. Cook them down until they hold their shape on a spoon, since a loose bean paste makes the tortilla soggy.
2. Pull it apart into strands rather than grating or slicing it. Mozzarella is the usual substitute and it is close in behaviour if not in flavour.
3. Grill the meat separately over the coals and slice it, since it needs only a minute or two a side. Heat a comal or set a grill over charcoal. Lay the tlayuda on the hot surface and let it warm and soften slightly for a moment.
4. Warm it briefly first so it becomes pliable enough to spread on without cracking. Spread the bean paste over that in an even layer.
5. Scatter the quesillo over the beans. Give it 5 to 8 minutes over moderate heat, turning if folded, until the base is crisp and blistered.
6. Keep the heat moderate, since fierce heat blackens the tortilla before the cheese melts. Press it down with a spatula so it makes contact all over.
7. Pile on shredded cabbage, tomato, avocado and the grilled meat. They are the fresh cool element against the hot crisp base, and cooking them defeats the point. Add salsa and a squeeze of lime. Serve it immediately, cut into wedges or folded whole.

Technique

• The tlayuda tortilla is partly dried and keeps for weeks.
• Asiento is sold in Oaxacan markets and is what distinguishes the dish.
• It is night food in Oaxaca and the stands open in the evening.

Substitutions

• Lard in place of asiento, which is less interesting.
• Mozzarella in place of quesillo.

Variations

• Folded, as the classic street version.
• Open, as restaurants often serve it.
• Made vegetarian, with beans, cheese and vegetables only.

History

Sold from night stands in Oaxaca city, built on a large tortilla toasted on a comal and smeared with asiento, the residue of rendered lard.

Frequently asked questions

What is Tlayuda?

Tlayuda is a street food from Mexico: huge crisp tortilla spread with pork lard, beans, quesillo and grilled meat. Sold from night stands in Oaxaca city, built on a large tortilla toasted on a comal and smeared with asiento, the residue of rendered lard.

How long does Tlayuda take to make?

Tlayuda takes 30 min of preparation and 30 min of cooking. The recipe makes 4 tlayudas. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Tlayuda?

Yes, within limits. Lard in place of asiento, which is less interesting. Mozzarella in place of quesillo.

What is the most important thing to get right in Tlayuda?

Pull it apart into strands rather than grating or slicing it. Mozzarella is the usual substitute and it is close in behaviour if not in flavour.