Calabaza en tacha

Ingredients

Pumpkin

• 2 kgcalabaza de Castilla, or any dense winter squash
• in large chunks with the skin on

Syrup

• 600 gpiloncillo, chopped
• or 600 g dark brown sugar
• 500 mlwater
• 3cinnamon sticks
• 4whole cloves
• 1orange, in strips of peel
• 2guavas, halved, optional
• 1star anise, optional

To serve

• cold milk, poured over
• the syrup from the pan

Directions

1. Chop it with a heavy knife or grate it. Any firm winter squash works in its place. Wash the outside of the pumpkin well. Cut it into large chunks with a heavy knife. Leave the skin on every piece. Keep the seeds and toast them separately.
2. Cut the chunks about ten centimetres across. Score the cut flesh in a criss-cross pattern. Cut about one centimetre deep. Unscored pumpkin only takes syrup on the surface.
3. Put the chopped piloncillo in a large pot. Add the water, cinnamon, cloves and orange peel. Add the star anise if you are using it. Heat it gently until the piloncillo dissolves. Stir it occasionally to help it along. Hard piloncillo takes a while to break down.
4. Let it come to a simmer once dissolved. Lay the pumpkin pieces in the pot. Set them skin side down where you can. Pack them in a single layer if possible. Add the guava halves if you are using them.
5. Cover the pot and bring it to a gentle simmer. Let it cook for about forty-five minutes. Turn the pieces once during that time. Turn them carefully so they do not break. Then take the lid off entirely. Let it simmer uncovered for another forty minutes.
6. Spoon syrup over the pumpkin every ten minutes. Judging when it is done takes a look. Take it off the heat while the pieces are whole. Serving it is done warm or cold.
7. Lift the pieces into bowls with a slotted spoon. Spoon plenty of the dark syrup over them. Pour cold milk around the pumpkin. That cold milk against the hot sweet syrup is the point.

Technique

• Tacha refers to the vats in which cane syrup was once boiled at sugar mills, and the name records that history.
• The dish is set on Day of the Dead ofrendas for returning souls as well as being eaten through the season.

Substitutions

• Any dense winter squash works in place of calabaza de Castilla.
• Dark brown sugar stands in for piloncillo with a lighter and simpler flavour.

Variations

• Some cooks add guava, orange or sugar cane to the pot.
• A version cooked with less syrup gives a drier candied result.
• Camote en tacha, made with sweet potato, is cooked exactly the same way.

History

Set on Day of the Dead altars for returning souls; tacha refers to the sugar-mill vats the syrup was once boiled in.

Frequently asked questions

What is Calabaza en tacha?

Calabaza en tacha is a dessert from Mexico: pumpkin simmered in piloncillo syrup with cinnamon until glassy and dark. Set on Day of the Dead altars for returning souls; tacha refers to the sugar-mill vats the syrup was once boiled in.

How long does Calabaza en tacha take to make?

Calabaza en tacha takes 20 minutes of preparation and 1 hour 30 minutes of cooking. The recipe makes serves 8. It is rated easy to make.

What can I substitute in Calabaza en tacha?

Yes, within limits. Any dense winter squash works in place of calabaza de Castilla. Dark brown sugar stands in for piloncillo with a lighter and simpler flavour.

What is the most important thing to get right in Calabaza en tacha?

Cover the pot and bring it to a gentle simmer. Let it cook for about forty-five minutes. Turn the pieces once during that time. Turn them carefully so they do not break. Then take the lid off entirely. Let it simmer uncovered for another forty minutes.