Tavë kosi

Ingredients

Lamb

• 1.2 kglamb shoulder on the bone, cut into 6 large pieces
• 60 gbutter
• 2 tspsalt
• 1 tspblack pepper
• 2 tspdried oregano
• 3garlic cloves, crushed
• 200 mlwater

Rice

• 120 gshort-grain rice, rinsed

Yoghurt custard

• 1 kgfull-fat plain yoghurt, at room temperature
• 4eggs
• 40 gplain flour
• 40 gbutter
• 1 tspsalt
• freshly grated nutmeg

Directions

1. Brown the lamb in the butter in a wide clay tavë or ovenproof pan over medium-high heat, 4–5 minutes a side, until well coloured.
2. Season with salt, pepper, oregano and garlic, add the water, cover and roast at 180°C (350°F) for 50 minutes until the meat is tender and pulling from the bone. Keep the pan juices.
3. Meanwhile simmer the rice in salted water for 6 minutes, so it is half cooked, and drain it. It will finish in the custard.
4. Make a white roux: melt the 40 g butter in a saucepan, whisk in the flour and cook 2 minutes over medium heat until it smells nutty but stays pale.
5. Take the roux off the heat and let it cool for 2 minutes, then whisk in the yoghurt a ladleful at a time, followed by the eggs one by one, the salt and a good grating of nutmeg. The mixture should be smooth and pourable, like thick cream.
6. Scatter the drained rice around the lamb in the dish, spoon over 3 tbsp of the roasting juices, then pour the yoghurt custard over everything so the meat is submerged apart from the bones.
7. Bake at 180°C (350°F) for 40–45 minutes, until the top is blotched golden brown and the custard is set with a faint wobble at the centre; a knife inserted midway comes out clean.
8. Rest at least 15 minutes before serving so the custard firms enough to cut into squares. Serve warm, not hot, straight from the tavë.

Technique

• The yoghurt must be full fat and at room temperature. Cold or low-fat yoghurt splits into grains and weeping whey in the oven.
• Adding the yoghurt to a hot roux curdles it instantly; cool the roux first and add slowly, exactly as you would temper a custard.
• The Elbasan original is made with no rice at all, just lamb under the yoghurt. Both versions are served across Albania and Albanians argue about which is correct.

Substitutions

• Goat or mutton is closer to the village original; add 20 minutes to the braise.
• Sheep yoghurt is traditional and tangier. If you only have Greek yogurt, thin it with 100 ml milk so the custard is not too dense.

Variations

• Tavë Elbasani, rice-free and made with sheep yoghurt, the version that gave the dish its name.
• Individual portions baked in small earthenware dishes, standard in Tirana restaurants.

History

Lamb baked under a yoghurt and egg custard, associated with Elbasan, where it is known as tavë Elbasani.

Frequently asked questions

What is Tavë kosi?

Tavë kosi is a main from Albania: lamb and rice baked under tangy yoghurt custard, national dish. Lamb baked under a yoghurt and egg custard, associated with Elbasan, where it is known as tavë Elbasani.

How long does Tavë kosi take to make?

Tavë kosi takes 25 min of preparation and 1 hr 20 min of cooking. The recipe makes 6 servings. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Tavë kosi?

Yes, within limits. Goat or mutton is closer to the village original; add 20 minutes to the braise. Sheep yoghurt is traditional and tangier. If you only have Greek yogurt, thin it with 100 ml milk so the custard is not too dense.

What is the most important thing to get right in Tavë kosi?

The yoghurt must be full fat and at room temperature. Cold or low-fat yoghurt splits into grains and weeping whey in the oven.