Pineapple Cake

Ingredients

Filling

• 1 kgfresh pineapple flesh, chopped
• 120 gcaster sugar
• 2 tbspmaltose or golden syrup
• 1 tbsplemon juice

Pastry

• 200 gunsalted butter, softened
• 60 gicing sugar
• 1egg yolk
• 30 gmilk powder
• 20 gParmesan or hard cheese, finely grated, if wanted
• 240 gplain flour
• 40 gcornflour
• 1/4 tspsalt

Equipment

• 16rectangular pineapple cake moulds, about 5 by 3 cm
• a lined baking tray

Note

• the filling takes over an hour of reduction and cannot be rushed

Directions

1. Cut off the skin and dig out the eyes. Cut out the hard central core and keep it. The core holds a great deal of pectin, which helps the jam set. Chop the core very finely and add it to the flesh. Chop the pineapple flesh coarsely. Put the pineapple in a wide heavy pan.
2. Cook it over a medium heat, stirring often. Let that liquid boil away, which takes twenty minutes or so. Add the sugar, maltose and lemon juice once it has reduced. Lower the heat and keep cooking, stirring constantly.
3. Spread it on a plate and let it cool completely. Divide it into sixteen equal pieces. Roll each into a small block or ball. Chill them while you make the pastry. Making the pastry needs a light hand. Beat the softened butter with the icing sugar until pale. Beat the single egg yolk in as well.
4. Add the milk powder and the grated cheese if you are using it. Sift in the flour, cornflour and salt. Fold it in until it just comes together. Do not overwork it, which makes the pastry tough. Wrap it and refrigerate it for an hour. It should be firm but still pliable.
5. Divide it into sixteen equal pieces. Assembling them takes practice. Flatten a piece of pastry into a disc in your palm. Put a block of filling in the centre. Bring the pastry up around it. Pinch it closed and roll it smooth. The pastry should completely enclose the filling with no thin patches.
6. Set the moulds on a lined baking tray. Put a filled ball into each mould. Press it down firmly with your fingers to fill the corners. The top should be level with the rim. Chill the tray for twenty minutes before baking. Baking them is done at a moderate heat. Heat the oven to 165C in good time. Bake them for about twelve minutes.
7. Take the tray out and turn each cake over in its mould. Use a spatula and a cloth, since they are hot. Bake them for another ten to twelve minutes. They should be pale golden rather than deeply coloured. Let them cool completely in their moulds. They are very fragile while warm. Pack them into an airtight tin. They keep for a week and freeze well.

Technique

• Reduce the filling until a ball holds together in your palm, or it leaks and makes the pastry soggy.
• Keep the pineapple core, since it carries the pectin that helps the jam set.
• Turn the cakes over halfway through baking so both faces colour evenly.

Substitutions

• Tinned pineapple, drained thoroughly, though fresh is much better.
• Golden syrup in place of maltose.

Variations

• The older style, with winter melon making up most of the filling.
• With a salted egg yolk in the centre.
• Made round rather than in rectangular moulds.

History

Taiwan was a leading pineapple canner under Japanese rule; the cakes became engagement gifts, and 2000s bakers replaced winter-melon filling with real pineapple.

Frequently asked questions

What is Pineapple Cake?

Pineapple Cake is a dessert from Taiwan: buttery shortbread cube filled with pineapple jam, favorite souvenir. Taiwan was a leading pineapple canner under Japanese rule; the cakes became engagement gifts, and 2000s bakers replaced winter-melon filling with real pineapple.

How long does Pineapple Cake take to make?

Pineapple Cake takes 1 hour plus 1 hour chilling of preparation and 1 hour 30 min of cooking. The recipe makes 16 cakes. It is rated hard to make.

What can I substitute in Pineapple Cake?

Yes, within limits. Tinned pineapple, drained thoroughly, though fresh is much better. Golden syrup in place of maltose.

What is the most important thing to get right in Pineapple Cake?

Add the milk powder and the grated cheese if you are using it. Sift in the flour, cornflour and salt. Fold it in until it just comes together. Do not overwork it, which makes the pastry tough. Wrap it and refrigerate it for an hour. It should be firm but still pliable.