Ingredients
Sweet potato
- 1.5 kgkumala
- sweet potato
- water, to cover
- salt
For the umu
- banana leaves
- hot stones
- or an oven at high heat
Sometimes served with
- coconut cream
- or lu, taro leaves in coconut
- a little salt water
Alongside
- grilled or raw fish
- roast pork
- as the starch of the meal
Directions
- Cut off any of the damaged spots. Leave the skin on for boiling. It also stops water getting in. Peel them afterwards rather than before.
- Put them whole in a large pot. Cover them well with cold water. Add plenty of salt to the water. Bring the pot up to a full boil. Cooking them takes about half an hour. Let them boil steadily throughout. Give them about thirty minutes. Check it earlier than you expect to.
- Take it out the moment it is tender. Drain them and let them steam dry. Peel the skins off while warm. They should slip off with your fingers. Pile the stones onto the fire.
- Let it burn down for an hour or more. The stones should be genuinely hot. Use stones known to be safe for this. Never use river stones that hold water inside. Keep everyone well back when uncovering it. Rake the fire and level the hot stones.
- Lay banana leaves over all of them. Set the whole sweet potatoes on the leaves. Cover them over with more leaves. Cover the whole thing with earth or sacking. Cooking it takes quite a long time.
- Leave the umu closed for at least an hour. Do not open it up to check on it. Heat the oven to two hundred degrees. Set the whole sweet potatoes on a tray. Prick each one all over with a fork. Steam builds up inside as they bake. Bake them for about one full hour. Judging them takes a firm squeeze.
- Cut them into thick even pieces. Set them out on a platter or a leaf. Serve fish or pork alongside them. Pour coconut cream over the pieces. It keeps three days refrigerated.
Technique
- Sweet potato is native to the Americas but was growing in Polynesia before European arrival, which archaeological remains establish. How it got there is not settled: one view is that Polynesian voyagers carried it back, another that it dispersed naturally, and genetic studies have supported both. The Polynesian names kumala, kumara and umala resemble kumar in some Andean languages, which is suggestive rather than conclusive; the atlas records the debate rather than picking a side.
- Umu stones reach very high temperatures and water on them flashes to steam violently, while certain rocks crack or explode when heated; volcanic rock is used for that reason, river stones that hold water inside should never be used, and everyone stays well back when the pit is uncovered.
- Pacific varieties are often white or pale yellow, drier and less sweet than orange ones, which suits a starchy staple where a very sweet orange variety reads as a dessert.
Substitutions
- An oven at high heat bakes them well where an umu is not possible.
- Any sweet potato variety works, though pale dry ones suit the dish better.
Variations
- Boiling keeps them plainer and starchier while baking concentrates the sugars.
- Coconut cream or lu, taro leaves in coconut, are served alongside.
- It is the starch of the plate rather than a side dish.
History
Reached Polynesia from South America before European contact and became a mainstay of Tongan gardens.
Frequently asked questions
What is Kumala?
Kumala is a salad & side from Tonga: sweet potato boiled or baked in the ‘umu; served with meat and fish. Reached Polynesia from South America before European contact and became a mainstay of Tongan gardens.
How long does Kumala take to make?
Kumala takes 15 minutes of preparation and 45 minutes of cooking. The recipe makes serves 6. It is rated easy to make.
What can I substitute in Kumala?
Yes, within limits. An oven at high heat bakes them well where an umu is not possible. Any sweet potato variety works, though pale dry ones suit the dish better.
What is the most important thing to get right in Kumala?
Cut off any of the damaged spots. Leave the skin on for boiling. It also stops water getting in. Peel them afterwards rather than before.
