Hto Hpu Nwe

Ingredients

Chickpea tofu porridge

• 250 gchickpea flour, besan
• 1.5 litreswater
• 1 teaspoonground turmeric
• 2 teaspoonssalt

Noodles

• 300 gfresh thin rice noodles
• or 200 g dried rice vermicelli

Chilli oil

• 4 tablespoonschilli flakes
• 150 mloil
• 4garlic cloves, sliced
• 1 teaspoonground turmeric
• 1/2 teaspoonsalt

To top

• 2 tablespoonssoy sauce
• 2 tablespoonstamarind water
• crisp fried garlic
• crushed roasted peanuts
• crisp fried noodle or crackers
• chopped coriander
• sliced spring onion
• a wedge of lime

Directions

1. Put the chilli flakes in a heatproof bowl. Add the turmeric and the salt to them. Heat the oil in a small frying pan. Add the sliced garlic to the oil. Fry it until it is just turning golden.
2. Take it off while it is still pale gold. It keeps cooking in the hot oil afterwards. Pour the hot oil over the chilli flakes. The hot oil blooms the chilli instantly. Pour it slowly and stand back a little. Let it cool down before using it. Put the chickpea flour in a large bowl. Add about a third of the water to it.
3. Whisk it until completely smooth. A smooth thick paste first prevents them. Add the rest of the water gradually. Whisk it continuously as you add it. Add the turmeric and the salt. Let the batter stand for thirty minutes. Strain it through a sieve if you want it perfect. Cooking it takes constant attention.
4. Pour the batter into a heavy pan. Set the pan over a medium heat. Whisk it constantly from the start. Never stop whisking at any point. Keep whisking hard through that moment. Switch to a wooden spoon once it is thick.
5. Cook it on for about ten minutes more. It must be cooked out properly. Taste a little to check for rawness. It should taste nutty rather than chalky. Add hot water if it goes too thick. Keep it warm over the lowest heat. Soak dried vermicelli in warm water instead. Drain them thoroughly either way.
6. Toss them with a little oil to stop sticking. Preparing the toppings takes a moment. Fry sliced garlic until crisp and golden. Crush the roasted peanuts coarsely. Break the crackers into pieces. Chop the coriander and spring onion.
7. Mix the soy sauce and tamarind water. Assembling it is done to order. Ladle the warm porridge into a bowl. Fill it about two thirds full. Lay a portion of noodles over the top. Spoon the soy and tamarind mixture over. Spoon chilli oil generously over that.
8. Scatter crisp fried garlic over it. Scatter crushed peanuts over that. Add the broken crackers last of all. Add coriander and spring onion. Serving it is done immediately while warm. Warm it with water and whisk to loosen it.

Technique

• Shan tofu is made from chickpea or split pea flour rather than soybeans, because soybeans did not grow well in the Shan hills while chickpeas and split peas did; the result is yellow, softer and more custard-like than soy tofu.
• Hto hpu nwe is the warm unset form of that tofu, caught before it sets, with nwe meaning warm in Burmese; the same batter left to cool becomes the set blocks of Shan tofu.
• Chickpea batter thickens suddenly rather than gradually and catches on the bottom instantly, so whisk without stopping, and cook it on for ten minutes after thickening since raw chickpea flour tastes bitter and chalky.

Substitutions

• Split pea flour works in place of chickpea flour and is equally traditional.
• Dried rice vermicelli soaked in warm water stands in for fresh noodles.

Variations

• The same batter left to cool and set is cut into blocks as Shan tofu.
• Some stalls add pickled vegetables or a meat sauce over the top.
• The proportion of chilli oil varies enormously between stalls.

History

Shan hill dish built on chickpea tofu, made where soybeans were scarce; sold from morning stalls in Taunggyi and Mandalay.

Frequently asked questions

What is Hto Hpu Nwe?

Hto Hpu Nwe is a breakfast from Myanmar: warm chickpea-flour tofu porridge topped with rice noodles, chilli oil and crisps. Shan hill dish built on chickpea tofu, made where soybeans were scarce; sold from morning stalls in Taunggyi and Mandalay.

How long does Hto Hpu Nwe take to make?

Hto Hpu Nwe takes 20 minutes plus resting of preparation and 30 minutes of cooking. The recipe makes serves 4. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Hto Hpu Nwe?

Yes, within limits. Split pea flour works in place of chickpea flour and is equally traditional. Dried rice vermicelli soaked in warm water stands in for fresh noodles.

What is the most important thing to get right in Hto Hpu Nwe?

Pour the batter into a heavy pan. Set the pan over a medium heat. Whisk it constantly from the start. Never stop whisking at any point. Keep whisking hard through that moment. Switch to a wooden spoon once it is thick.