Guiso de pipián

Ingredients

Squash

• 1 kgpipian squash, young and tender
• or 1 kg young courgette
• or 1 kg patty pan squash

The pot

• 2onions, chopped
• 1sweet pepper, chopped
• 4garlic cloves, crushed
• 4tomatoes, chopped
• 3 tablespoonsoil
• 1 teaspoonground cumin
• 1 teaspoondried oregano
• 1stock cube
• salt and black pepper

To finish

• 200 gcuajada, crumbled
• or 200 g queso fresco
• or 200 g feta, rinsed
• 150 mlcream
• or 150 ml sour cream
• a handful of coriander, chopped

To serve

• warm corn tortillas
• plain rice
• gallo pinto

Directions

1. Wash the squash very thoroughly. Trim off all of the stem ends. Cut them into thick even chunks. Leave all the skin on entirely. Keep the pieces a similar size. Leave it in a colander for twenty minutes. Pat it dry again before cooking.
2. Heat the oil in a wide heavy pan. Add the chopped onions and pepper. Cook them for about eight minutes. Add the crushed garlic to the pan. Cook it for a good two minutes. Add the cumin and the oregano.
3. Fry them for about thirty seconds. Add the chopped tomatoes to the pan. Crumble in the stock cube as well. Cook them down for about eight minutes. Mash them against the pan as they soften. The base should become quite thick. Add the squash chunks to the pan. Stir them through the tomato base. Season it with salt and black pepper.
4. Cover it over and lower the heat. Cooking it takes very little time. Let it cook for about twelve minutes. Stir it gently just once or twice. Add a splash only if the pan goes dry. If it is too wet, take the lid off.
5. Let it reduce uncovered for a few minutes. Judging when it is done is the whole skill. Take it off the moment it is tender. It keeps cooking in the hot pan.
6. Take the pan off the heat entirely. Crumble the cheese over the squash. Pour the cream over all of it. Fold it all through very gently. Fresh cheese goes rubbery if boiled. Cover it and let it sit two minutes. Scatter the chopped coriander over it.
7. Taste it and adjust the salt now. Serving it is done piping hot. Spoon it into a warm serving dish. Serve warm corn tortillas alongside. It keeps two days refrigerated.

Technique

• Pipian in Nicaragua is a small young squash, while in Mexico the same word means a sauce thickened with ground seeds; the two are unrelated and the shared word catches people out.
• Cuajada is a fresh curd cheese that softens in heat but does not melt smooth, holding its shape in the stew; queso fresco is the closest substitute.
• The cheese and cream go in off the heat, since fresh cheese goes rubbery if boiled and cream splits, and the residual heat is enough to warm both.

Substitutions

• Young courgette or patty pan squash stand in for pipian.
• Queso fresco or rinsed feta replace cuajada.

Variations

• Some cooks salt the cut squash first to draw out water.
• A version with more cream is richer and softer.
• Similar young squash stews are made across Central America.

History

Pipián is a small native Nicaraguan squash picked tender; the stew is everyday home cooking.

Frequently asked questions

What is Guiso de pipián?

Guiso de pipián is a main from Nicaragua: young squash stewed with tomato, cheese and cream, eaten with tortillas. Pipián is a small native Nicaraguan squash picked tender; the stew is everyday home cooking.

How long does Guiso de pipián take to make?

Guiso de pipián takes 20 minutes of preparation and 30 minutes of cooking. The recipe makes serves 4. It is rated easy to make.

What can I substitute in Guiso de pipián?

Yes, within limits. Young courgette or patty pan squash stand in for pipian. Queso fresco or rinsed feta replace cuajada.

What is the most important thing to get right in Guiso de pipián?

Let it reduce uncovered for a few minutes. Judging when it is done is the whole skill. Take it off the moment it is tender. It keeps cooking in the hot pan.