Ingredients
Fish
- 1whole grey mullet, about 1 kg, scaled and gutted
- 1 tablespooncoarse salt, for cleaning
Broth
- 1.5 litreswater
- 200 gKorean radish, in thick slices
- 1onion, halved
- 4garlic cloves, sliced
- 2cm ginger, sliced
- 1 tablespoonsoup soy sauce
- salt, to taste
To finish
- 2 teaspoonsfreshly ground black pepper, or more
- 4spring onions, cut into lengths
- 1green chilli, sliced
- a handful of watercress or crown daisy
Directions
- Scale the fish thoroughly, working from tail to head. Gut it and rinse the cavity under cold running water. That membrane is bitter and must be removed completely.
- Take great care not to burst the gall bladder. Rub the fish inside and out with coarse salt. Rinse it again and pat it dry with kitchen paper. Cut it crosswise into thick steaks through the bone. Keep the head, which gives the broth most of its body.
- Put the water, radish, onion, garlic and ginger in a pot. Bring it to the boil and then lower it to a simmer.
- Let it cook for fifteen minutes before the fish goes in. The radish should be turning translucent at the edges. Add the head first, since it takes slightly longer. Never let the pot boil hard from this point on.
- Skim the grey foam off the surface as it rises. Skimming carefully keeps the finished soup clear. Simmer it gently for about twelve minutes. The flesh should come away from the bone easily. Stir in the soup soy sauce for colour and depth. Taste the broth and add salt until it is properly seasoned.
- Grind it fresh and add far more than seems normal. The soup should taste distinctly hot with pepper. Add the spring onions and the sliced chilli. Drop in the watercress or crown daisy leaves.
- Let them wilt for thirty seconds and no longer. Take the pot off the heat straight away. Serving it is done boiling hot in deep bowls. Ladle a piece of fish into each bowl with the broth. Grind more black pepper over the top at the table. The soup does not keep well and is best eaten the same day.
Technique
- The Taedong River runs through Pyongyang, and its grey mullet is recorded as a regional delicacy in Korean sources going back to the Joseon period.
- Grey mullet is also eaten widely in South Korea, where it is called sungeo and is popular raw as hoe in winter.
Substitutions
- Sea bass, croaker or any firm white round fish can be used in place of mullet.
- Daikon replaces Korean radish, though it is milder and slightly more watery.
Variations
- Some Korean fish soups of this type add gochugaru for a red spicy broth, but the pepper-led version is what is described for Pyongyang.
- A clear version with no soy sauce at all is also made.
- Adding tofu is common in home versions.
History
Grey mullet from the Taedong River has been a Pyongyang delicacy since the Joseon period, simmered peppery and served to honoured guests.
Frequently asked questions
What is Sungeo-guk?
Sungeo-guk is a soup & stew from North Korea: peppery soup of Taedong River grey mullet, a Pyongyang specialty. Grey mullet from the Taedong River has been a Pyongyang delicacy since the Joseon period, simmered peppery and served to honoured guests.
How long does Sungeo-guk take to make?
Sungeo-guk takes 20 minutes of preparation and 40 minutes of cooking. The recipe makes serves 4. It is rated medium to make.
What can I substitute in Sungeo-guk?
Yes, within limits. Sea bass, croaker or any firm white round fish can be used in place of mullet. Daikon replaces Korean radish, though it is milder and slightly more watery.
What is the most important thing to get right in Sungeo-guk?
Scale the fish thoroughly, working from tail to head. Gut it and rinse the cavity under cold running water. That membrane is bitter and must be removed completely.
