Chuan’r

Ingredients

Lamb

• 800 glamb shoulder or leg
• 150 glamb fat, from the tail or belly

Marinade

• 2 tablespoonslight soy sauce
• 1 tablespoonShaoxing wine
• 1 teaspoonsalt
• 1 tablespoonoil
• 1 teaspoonground white pepper
• 1onion, grated
• 1egg white, optional

Spice mix

• 3 tablespoonscumin seed, coarsely ground
• 2 tablespoonschilli flakes
• 1 tablespoontoasted sesame seed
• 1 teaspoonSichuan pepper, ground, optional
• 2 teaspoonssalt
• 1 teaspoonsugar

Equipment

• flat metal skewers
• or bamboo skewers, soaked
• a charcoal grill

Directions

1. Cut the lamb into small even cubes. Aim for pieces about two centimetres. Cut the fat into slightly smaller pieces. Put the meat cubes into a bowl. Add the soy sauce and the Shaoxing wine. Add the salt, white pepper and oil. Add the grated onion to the bowl.
2. Add the egg white if you are using it. Mix it thoroughly with your hands. Cover it and refrigerate it now. Give it at least two full hours.
3. Toast the cumin seed in a dry pan. Give it about two minutes until fragrant. Let it cool and grind it coarsely. Mix it with the chilli flakes and sesame. Add the salt and the sugar to it.
4. Add Sichuan pepper if you want the numbing note. Soak bamboo skewers in water for an hour. That stops them burning through on the grill.
5. Thread meat and fat alternately. Let the coals burn down to glowing red. There should be no flames at all. Lay the skewers across the grill. Turn them almost continuously. Give them about six minutes in total.
6. Sprinkle the spice mix over as they cook. Turn the skewers after each sprinkle. Sprinkle more over them at the end. The skewers should look red and dusty.
7. Serve them straight off the grill. Pile them into a metal tray or a glass. Pull the meat off with your teeth. Cold beer is the fixed accompaniment.

Technique

• The tradition came east from Xinjiang Uyghur kebab cooking and spread through Chinese cities from the nineteen eighties.
• Cubes of fat threaded between the meat baste the lean lamb as they render, so skewers of pure lean meat go dry.
• Cumin is called ziran and is little used in most Chinese cooking, but is central to Xinjiang and Muslim Chinese food.

Substitutions

• Beef or chicken can be skewered the same way, though lamb is the standard.
• Flat metal skewers work far better than round ones, which let the meat spin.

Variations

• Vegetables, tofu and squid are grilled on the same stalls.
• A version with more chilli is made for those who want heat.
• Xinjiang kawap is the Uyghur original the dish comes from.

History

Brought east from Xinjiang Uyghur kebab traditions, becoming the defining snack of northern Chinese summer nights.

Frequently asked questions

What is Chuan’r?

Chuan’r is a street food from China: cumin-and-chilli lamb skewers grilled over charcoal at pavement stalls. Brought east from Xinjiang Uyghur kebab traditions, becoming the defining snack of northern Chinese summer nights.

How long does Chuan’r take to make?

Chuan’r takes 30 minutes plus marinating of preparation and 15 minutes of cooking. The recipe makes about 20 skewers. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Chuan’r?

Yes, within limits. Beef or chicken can be skewered the same way, though lamb is the standard. Flat metal skewers work far better than round ones, which let the meat spin.