Black Pepper Crab

Ingredients

Crab

• 1mud crab, about 1.2 kg, live or freshly killed

Pepper mix

• 4 tbspblack peppercorns, coarsely cracked
• 1 tbspwhite peppercorns, cracked

Aromatics

• 80 gbutter
• 8 clovesgarlic, minced
• 3cm ginger, minced
• 4shallots, minced
• 2 sprigscurry leaves
• 3red chillies, sliced

Seasoning

• 2 tbspoyster sauce
• 1 tbspdark soy sauce
• 1 tbsplight soy sauce
• 1 tbspsugar
• 2 tbspShaoxing wine or water

To serve

• mantou buns, fried or steamed
• plenty of napkins
• a crab cracker

Directions

1. Use a genuinely large quantity of black peppercorns, far more than feels reasonable. Crack them coarsely rather than grinding them fine, using a mortar or the base of a heavy pan.
2. Crack them fresh, since pre-ground pepper loses its volatile aromatics within weeks. Toast the cracked pepper briefly in a dry pan until fragrant, no more than thirty seconds. Live mud crab gives by far the best result, and it must be dispatched before cooking.
3. Lift off the top shell, remove the gills and the stomach sac behind the mouth, and rinse it. Keep the crab roe from inside the shell if there is any, which is prized and can be stirred into the sauce.
4. Crack them firmly enough to fracture the shell without shattering it into the meat. That firms the meat, seals the cut edges and helps it hold together in the wok. Butter is central here rather than incidental, and it is what carries the pepper and gives the dish its richness. Melt it over a moderate heat rather than a fierce one, since butter burns readily.
5. Fry the garlic, ginger and shallots gently in the butter until fragrant and just golden. Do not let the garlic darken, since burnt garlic turns bitter and the sauce is dark enough that you will not see it happening.
6. Add the curry leaves, which crackle and release their aroma. Curry leaves are characteristic and they should be used generously. Add the toasted cracked pepper and fry it in the butter for a minute. Add the oyster sauce, both soy sauces, sugar and wine. Let it bubble briefly into a thick dark paste.
7. Add the crab pieces and toss them thoroughly in the sauce over a high heat. Toss constantly so every piece is coated, and use tongs rather than a spatula. Cover and cook for six to eight minutes, tossing occasionally. Now judging when the crab is done. Serve it immediately with fried mantou buns and a great many napkins.

Technique

• It is dry and peppery where chilli crab is wet and sweet.
• Crack the pepper coarsely and fry it in the butter to bloom it.
• Chill and spike the crab rather than boiling it alive.

Substitutions

• Dungeness or blue swimmer crab in place of mud crab.
• A fishmonger to kill and clean the crab for you.

Variations

• Chilli crab, the wet tomato-based counterpart.
• White pepper crab, which is sharper.
• Made with prawns, which is far quicker.

History

Created in Singapore’s 1950s-60s seafood scene as a drier counterpart to chilli crab; Long Beach restaurant claims the original recipe.

Frequently asked questions

What is Black Pepper Crab?

Black Pepper Crab is a main from Singapore: crab wok-tossed in coarse black pepper, butter and curry leaf, dry and pungent. Created in Singapore’s 1950s-60s seafood scene as a drier counterpart to chilli crab; Long Beach restaurant claims the original recipe.

How long does Black Pepper Crab take to make?

Black Pepper Crab takes 30 min of preparation and 20 min of cooking. The recipe makes 2 to 3 servings. It is rated hard to make.

What can I substitute in Black Pepper Crab?

Yes, within limits. Dungeness or blue swimmer crab in place of mud crab. A fishmonger to kill and clean the crab for you.

What is the most important thing to get right in Black Pepper Crab?

Use a genuinely large quantity of black peppercorns, far more than feels reasonable. Crack them coarsely rather than grinding them fine, using a mortar or the base of a heavy pan.