Tejuino

Ingredients

Base

• 300 gmasa, fresh nixtamalised corn dough, or masa harina
• 2 litreswater
• 250 gpiloncillo, or dark brown sugar

To serve

• juice of 4 limes
• coarse salt
• chilli powder or Tajín
• nieve de limón, lime sorbet
• ice

Equipment

• a large non-reactive pot
• a jar or crock
• cloth to cover

Directions

1. Use fresh masa from a tortillería if you can, and masa harina if not. Dissolve the masa in the water, whisking until completely smooth.
2. Whisk out every lump before it goes near heat, because they will not disperse once it thickens. Stir without stopping, since masa catches on the base within seconds and a burnt note runs through the whole batch.
3. Add the piloncillo and let it dissolve. Simmer for 20 to 30 minutes until it thickens to a thin atole.
4. Cook the masa properly. It should be about the consistency of single cream. Pour it into a jar or crock and cover it with a cloth. Cover it with cloth rather than a sealed lid, so gas can escape while insects stay out.
5. Taste it once a day, starting after the first day. It is ready when it has turned pleasantly tart, with a faint fizz and a smell like sourdough. Stir it well before serving, since the masa settles heavily.
6. Fill it with ice, pour in the tejuino, and add a good squeeze of lime and a pinch of salt. That scoop of nieve de limón melting into the cold sour corn drink is what the carts in Guadalajara sell, and it is very good.
7. Serve it immediately, very cold. Tejuino is also drunk in Nayarit and Michoacán, and versions vary in how sour and how thick they are made.

Technique

• The fermentation is short and the alcohol content is very low.
• The lime sorbet version is the Guadalajara street classic.
• Fresh masa gives a noticeably better result than masa harina.

Substitutions

• Masa harina in place of fresh masa.
• Dark brown sugar in place of piloncillo.

Variations

• Served with lime sorbet, as in Guadalajara.
• Made thicker, closer to an atole.
• Fermented longer, for a sharper drink.

History

A pre-Hispanic Nahua drink still sold from carts in Jalisco and Colima; the masa is soured only lightly.

Frequently asked questions

What is Tejuino?

Tejuino is a drink from Mexico: fermented corn masa drink served cold with lime, salt and lime sorbet. A pre-Hispanic Nahua drink still sold from carts in Jalisco and Colima; the masa is soured only lightly.

How long does Tejuino take to make?

Tejuino takes 20 min plus 1 to 3 days fermenting of preparation and 40 min of cooking. The recipe makes 2 litres. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Tejuino?

Yes, within limits. Masa harina in place of fresh masa. Dark brown sugar in place of piloncillo.

What is the most important thing to get right in Tejuino?

Whisk out every lump before it goes near heat, because they will not disperse once it thickens. Stir without stopping, since masa catches on the base within seconds and a burnt note runs through the whole batch.