Puntarelle

Ingredients

Chicory

• 1 headpuntarelle, catalogna chicory with the inner shoots

Dressing

• 6anchovy fillets in oil
• 2 clovesgarlic
• 4 tbspred wine vinegar
• 8 tbspextra virgin olive oil
• black pepper

Equipment

• a puntarelle cutter, or a small sharp knife
• a large bowl of iced water

To serve

• as a winter antipasto or side

Directions

1. Strip the outer leaves away and break the pale shoots off the base. Trim off the hard base of each shoot and split any thick ones. Cut them lengthways and finely. In cold water the strips curl into tight spirals within a couple of hours, and the soaking also washes out much of the bitterness.
2. Leave them at least 2 hours, and use plenty of ice. The colder the water, the tighter the curl, so keep adding ice if it melts. Crush the garlic and the anchovy fillets together in a mortar into a paste.
3. Pound them into a proper paste. The anchovy should dissolve completely rather than sitting in recognisable pieces, and it gives the dressing its savour without tasting of fish.
4. Whisk in the vinegar, then the olive oil in a slow stream to emulsify. Add the oil gradually so it emulsifies into a creamy dressing rather than separating.
5. Season with plenty of black pepper and no salt at all. The anchovies are salty enough on their own, and salting it as well makes it inedible. Drain the curled puntarelle thoroughly and dry it well. Dry it properly.
6. Toss the puntarelle with the dressing and let it sit 10 minutes before serving. That short rest lets the dressing soften the shoots slightly, and they should still be crunchy.
7. Serve it as an antipasto or a side, at room temperature. Buying it ready-cut from a Roman market stall is entirely normal and saves the fiddliest part.

Technique

• The bitterness is the point rather than a fault, and long soaking tames but does not remove it.
• The outer leaves are used for soup or braised with garlic and chilli.
• Catalogna chicory is sold in Italian greengrocers through the winter.

Substitutions

• Belgian endive or dandelion, which is not the same but takes the dressing.
• A knife and patience in place of the wire cutter.

Variations

• With more anchovy for a stronger dressing.
• With a little lemon in place of some vinegar.
• Served alongside abbacchio, Roman roast lamb.

History

A winter Roman salad made from a local catalogna chicory, prepared with a special wire cutter.

Frequently asked questions

What is Puntarelle?

Puntarelle is a salad & side from Vatican City: curled chicory shoots in cold water, dressed with anchovy, garlic and vinegar. A winter Roman salad made from a local catalogna chicory, prepared with a special wire cutter.

How long does Puntarelle take to make?

Puntarelle takes 30 min plus 2 hr soaking of preparation and no cooking at all. The recipe makes 4 servings. It is rated easy to make.

What can I substitute in Puntarelle?

Yes, within limits. Belgian endive or dandelion, which is not the same but takes the dressing. A knife and patience in place of the wire cutter.

What is the most important thing to get right in Puntarelle?

Pound them into a proper paste. The anchovy should dissolve completely rather than sitting in recognisable pieces, and it gives the dressing its savour without tasting of fish.