Malabi

Ingredients

Pudding

• 1 litrewhole milk
• 80 gcornflour
• 100 gsugar
• 2 tbsprose water
• 1 tbsporange blossom water, optional

Rose syrup

• 200 gsugar
• 150 mlwater
• 2 tbsprose water
• 1 tsplemon juice
• a drop of red food colouring, optional

To finish

• 50 gdesiccated coconut
• 80 groasted peanuts, crushed
• chopped pistachios

Directions

1. Slake the cornflour in about 200 ml of the cold milk until completely smooth.
2. Slake it cold and whisk it properly. Cornflour tipped into hot milk seizes into lumps you will never whisk out.
3. Heat the rest of the milk with the sugar until steaming.
4. Pour the slaked cornflour into the hot milk in a steady stream, whisking constantly.
5. Cook over a medium heat, whisking without stopping, until it thickens noticeably and just comes to a boil.
6. Let it reach a boil, briefly. Cornflour only reaches full thickening power at boiling point, and pulled off early it sets soft and weeps in the fridge.
7. Whisk hard as it thickens, especially around the base of the pan where it catches first.
8. Take it off the heat and stir in the rose water.
9. The rose water goes in off the heat. It is volatile and boiling drives the perfume straight off.
10. Go carefully with it. Too much rose water and it tastes of soap, and this is the line every malabi walks.
11. Pour into individual cups or glasses, which is how it is sold.
12. Press cling film onto the surface if you dislike a skin, or leave it uncovered as the kiosks do.
13. Chill at least 4 hours, or overnight.
14. For the syrup, boil the sugar and water 5 minutes until slightly thickened, cool it, then stir in the rose water and lemon.
15. Cool the syrup completely before it goes on. Warm syrup melts a channel straight down through the set pudding.
16. To serve, spoon a generous layer of red rose syrup over each cup.
17. Scatter coconut, crushed peanuts and pistachios over the top.
18. The crushed peanuts are not a garnish. The contrast between the loose set pudding and the crunch is the whole experience of eating one.
19. It is kiosk and street food in Tel Aviv and Jaffa, sold in plastic cups and eaten standing up.
20. It descends from Ottoman muhallebi, and the cousins run right across the eastern Mediterranean under related names.

Technique

• The texture should be loose and wobbling, closer to a thick cream than a firm blancmange.
• Some kiosks use a little cream in the milk for a richer set.
• It keeps two or three days covered in the fridge.

Substitutions

• Coconut milk for a dairy-free version, which works well.
• Date syrup or grenadine in place of rose syrup.

Variations

• Muhallebi, the Turkish and Levantine version, often thicker.
• With a layer of tahini or halva.
• Made with coconut milk and topped with mango.

History

Kiosk dessert descended from Ottoman muhallebi, sold in plastic cups on Tel Aviv and Jaffa streets.

Frequently asked questions

What is Malabi?

Malabi is a dessert from Israel: cold milk pudding under rose syrup, coconut and crushed peanuts. Kiosk dessert descended from Ottoman muhallebi, sold in plastic cups on Tel Aviv and Jaffa streets.

How long does Malabi take to make?

Malabi takes 15 min plus 4 hr chilling of preparation and 15 min of cooking. The recipe makes 6 servings. It is rated easy to make.

What can I substitute in Malabi?

Yes, within limits. Coconut milk for a dairy-free version, which works well. Date syrup or grenadine in place of rose syrup.

What is the most important thing to get right in Malabi?

Slake it cold and whisk it properly. Cornflour tipped into hot milk seizes into lumps you will never whisk out.