Hamour mashwi

Ingredients

Fish

• 1whole grouper, about 1.5 kg
• or 4 thick fish steaks
• juice of 3 limes
• 2 teaspoonssalt

Baharat rub

• 2 tablespoonsbaharat spice mix
• or 1 teaspoon each cumin, coriander, cinnamon, black pepper, cloves and paprika
• 1 teaspoonground turmeric
• 6garlic cloves, crushed
• 3cm ginger, grated
• 1 teaspoonchilli powder
• 4 tablespoonsoil
• juice of 1 lime

To serve

• plain rice or machboos rice
• lime wedges
• daqqus, tomato chilli sauce
• sliced onion and tomato
• flatbread

Directions

1. Scale the fish from the tail towards the head. Gut it and rinse the cavity out thoroughly. Pull out the dark line along the backbone. That line goes bitter if it is left in.
2. Trim the fins off with kitchen scissors. Pat the whole fish completely dry. Rub the fish all over with lime juice and salt. Work it into the skin and into the cavity. Let it sit for about ten minutes.
3. Rinse it off and pat it dry once more. That washing takes off any strong smell. Cut three or four deep slashes into each side. Cut right down through to the bone each time. Those slashes let the heat into thick flesh.
4. Mix the baharat with the turmeric and chilli. Add the crushed garlic and the grated ginger. Add the oil and the lime juice to it. Work it all into a thick spreadable paste. It should be thick and able to cling.
5. Add more ground spice if it seems loose. Rub the paste all over the whole fish. Work it into the cavity as well. Cover it and let it sit for one hour. Keep it cold while it is marinating. Longer than two hours and the lime cooks it. Wait until the coals are covered in grey ash. Spread the embers out into an even bed.
6. Oil the grill bars well before the fish goes on. Fish skin sticks to a dry grill immediately. Lay the fish on and then leave it completely alone. Give it about ten minutes on the first side. Turn it once only with a wide slice. Give it another ten minutes on the second side. Baste it with any leftover rub as it cooks. Judging when it is done is straightforward enough.
7. Let it rest for about five minutes off the fire. Serving it is done hot from the grill. Set the whole fish out on a large platter. Serve rice alongside it as the main starch. Put daqqus on the table for those who want it.

Technique

• Hamour stocks in the Gulf are seriously depleted, with catches assessed far above sustainable levels; groupers grow slowly and mature late, so many are caught before ever spawning, which is what makes overfishing so damaging. Gulf states have introduced size limits and closed seasons, enforcement varies, and buying smaller fish makes the problem worse.
• Baharat simply means spices in Arabic and is a warm blend of cumin, coriander, cinnamon, black pepper, cloves, cardamom and paprika that varies by household and country, with Gulf versions often including dried lime powder.
• The fish must be scored right down to the bone, since an unscored whole fish burns on the outside before the thick flesh cooks through.

Substitutions

• Any firm white fish grills exactly the same way and is a better choice than wild hamour.
• A mixed ground spice blend stands in for bought baharat.

Variations

• Some cooks wrap the fish in banana leaf or foil before grilling.
• A version baked whole in the oven is made where charcoal is not possible.
• Machboos made with the same fish is the other Gulf classic.

History

Hamour, the Gulf’s prized grouper, is now heavily overfished in Qatari and neighbouring waters.

Frequently asked questions

What is Hamour mashwi?

Hamour mashwi is a main from Qatar: grilled grouper rubbed with baharat, served with rice and lime. Hamour, the Gulf’s prized grouper, is now heavily overfished in Qatari and neighbouring waters.

How long does Hamour mashwi take to make?

Hamour mashwi takes 30 minutes plus marinating of preparation and 30 minutes of cooking. The recipe makes serves 4. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Hamour mashwi?

Yes, within limits. Any firm white fish grills exactly the same way and is a better choice than wild hamour. A mixed ground spice blend stands in for bought baharat.

What is the most important thing to get right in Hamour mashwi?

Trim the fins off with kitchen scissors. Pat the whole fish completely dry. Rub the fish all over with lime juice and salt. Work it into the skin and into the cavity. Let it sit for about ten minutes.