Dovga

Ingredients

Base

• 1 litreplain yoghurt
• 1egg
• 2 tbspplain flour
• 1 litrewater
• 1 tspsalt

Add-ins

• 60 gshort grain rice, cooked
• 200 gcooked chickpeas

Herbs

• 1large bunch dill
• 1large bunch coriander
• 1 bunchmint
• 1 handfulspinach

Directions

1. Cook the rice separately in salted water until soft, then drain it and set it aside.
2. Whisk the yoghurt, egg and flour together in a large heavy pot until completely smooth.
3. The egg and flour are stabilisers rather than flavourings. Without them the yoghurt splits the moment it gets hot and there is no bringing it back.
4. Add the water gradually, whisking as you go, until it is evenly combined.
5. Set it over a medium heat and now stir constantly, always in the same direction, with a wooden spoon.
6. Stirring in one direction only is the instruction every Azerbaijani cook gives. Whether the direction itself matters is arguable; what is not arguable is that the stirring has to be continuous and unhurried right up to the boil.
7. Bring it slowly to the boil, which takes 15 to 20 minutes, and do not stop stirring at any point along the way.
8. Once it has actually boiled it is stable and you can stop worrying about it.
9. Add the cooked rice and the chickpeas and simmer for 5 minutes.
10. Add all the chopped herbs and the spinach and cook for 5 minutes more, no longer, so they stay green.
11. Season and serve hot in winter or chilled in summer, both of which are usual.

Technique

• The whole difficulty is getting it to the boil without splitting. After that it is a simple soup.
• Use full-fat yoghurt. Low-fat splits far more readily and tastes thin.
• Herbs by the bunch rather than the sprig. It should be as much green as white.

Substitutions

• Cornflour in place of plain flour, slaked in cold water first.
• Chickpeas from a tin, rinsed, which is what most households use.

Variations

• With small meatballs added, which makes it a fuller meal.
• Without rice, for a thinner soup.
• Served cold with extra mint on a hot day.

History

Yoghurt soup with herbs and chickpeas, stirred constantly in one direction so it does not split.

Frequently asked questions

What is Dovga?

Dovga is a soup & stew from Azerbaijan: hot yogurt-herb soup with rice and chickpeas, stirred constantly. Yoghurt soup with herbs and chickpeas, stirred constantly in one direction so it does not split.

How long does Dovga take to make?

Dovga takes 20 min of preparation and 40 min of cooking. The recipe makes 6 servings. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Dovga?

Yes, within limits. Cornflour in place of plain flour, slaked in cold water first. Chickpeas from a tin, rinsed, which is what most households use.

What is the most important thing to get right in Dovga?

The egg and flour are stabilisers rather than flavourings. Without them the yoghurt splits the moment it gets hot and there is no bringing it back.