Berenjenas en escabeche

Ingredients

The aubergines

• 1.2 kgsmall firm aubergines, peeled and cut into 1 cm strips
• 2 tbspcoarse salt, for degorging
• 500 mlwhite wine vinegar
• 500 mlwater
• 1 tbspsalt, for the blanching liquid

The dressing

• 8garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 2 tbspdried oregano
• 1 tspchilli flakes (ají molido)
• 2bay leaves
• 1 tspblack peppercorns
• 400–500 mlsunflower or light olive oil, enough to cover
• 1 tspfine salt

Directions

1. Peel the aubergines and cut them into strips about 1 cm thick and 6 cm long. Small, firm, pale-seeded aubergines make the best escabeche; big spongy ones go bitter.
2. Layer the strips in a colander with the coarse salt and leave 1 hour to drain, then rinse briefly and squeeze gently. This draws out water and bitterness.
3. Bring the vinegar, water and 1 tbsp salt to a rolling boil in a non-reactive pan.
4. Blanch the aubergine in batches for 2–3 minutes, until just yielding but still holding shape. Overcooked strips turn to mush in the jar.
5. Lift out with a slotted spoon and spread on clean cloths. Press with more cloth on top and leave to dry at least 2 hours, or overnight. Any water left behind will spoil the preserve.
6. Toss the dry strips in a bowl with the garlic, oregano, chilli, crumbled bay, peppercorns and fine salt until evenly coated.
7. Pack into sterilised jars, pressing down to remove air pockets, then pour in oil until the aubergine is covered by at least 1 cm. Tap the jars to release trapped bubbles.
8. Seal and keep in a cool dark place 7 days before opening, then refrigerate once opened and always keep the surface covered with oil. Eat within two months.

Technique

• This is a staple of the Argentine picada, the plate of preserved things eaten with bread and vermouth before dinner, and comes from Italian and Spanish preserving traditions.
• Drying is the critical safety and texture step. Vegetables preserved wet under oil are the classic setting for botulism; the vinegar blanch plus thorough drying plus refrigeration after opening is what keeps this safe.
• Never leave pieces poking above the oil line. Push them under or top up with more oil.
• The flavour needs a week. Straight after packing it tastes only of vinegar; by day seven the oregano and garlic have come through.

Substitutions

• Courgette, red pepper or small artichoke hearts can all be done exactly the same way.
• Sunflower oil is what most Argentine households use because it stays liquid in the fridge; olive oil solidifies and needs 20 minutes at room temperature before serving.

Variations

• Berenjenas en escabeche, the classic jar with oregano and garlic.
• A spicier Tucumán style with whole ajíes and more chilli.
• Berenjenas al escabeche con zanahoria, with carrot ribbons blanched alongside.

History

Jarred in Italian-Argentine kitchens and eaten on picadas with bread and cured meats.

Frequently asked questions

What is Berenjenas en escabeche?

Berenjenas en escabeche is a fermented & pickled from Argentina: aubergine strips preserved in vinegar, oil, garlic and oregano. Jarred in Italian-Argentine kitchens and eaten on picadas with bread and cured meats.

How long does Berenjenas en escabeche take to make?

Berenjenas en escabeche takes 30 min of preparation and 20 min, plus 7 days curing of cooking. The recipe makes 2 jars of 750 ml. It is rated easy to make.

What can I substitute in Berenjenas en escabeche?

Yes, within limits. Courgette, red pepper or small artichoke hearts can all be done exactly the same way. Sunflower oil is what most Argentine households use because it stays liquid in the fridge; olive oil solidifies and needs 20 minutes at room temperature before serving.

What is the most important thing to get right in Berenjenas en escabeche?

Never leave pieces poking above the oil line. Push them under or top up with more oil.