Akasan

Ingredients

Base

• 150 gfine white cornmeal or corn flour
• 500 mlcold water, for the slurry
• 1 litrewater, to boil

Spices

• 3star anise
• 1cinnamon stick
• 1 tspvanilla extract
• a pinch of salt
• a little grated nutmeg

To finish

• 400 mlevaporated milk
• 150 gsugar, or to taste
• a pinch of lime zest, optional

To serve

• hot in a mug at breakfast
• or cold in hot weather

Directions

1. Use fine white cornmeal or corn flour rather than coarse polenta. Coarse meal stays gritty however long it cooks, and akasan should be smooth and slippery in the mouth. Whisk the cornmeal into the cold water until completely smooth before any heat is involved. Never add dry cornmeal to hot liquid, which seizes into lumps that no amount of whisking will disperse.
2. Whisk it thoroughly and then pass it through a fine sieve. That sieving takes a minute and it is the difference between a smooth drink and a lumpy one. Stir the slurry again immediately before use, since the cornmeal settles heavily within a minute. Bring the litre of water to a boil with the star anise, cinnamon and salt.
3. Let the spices boil for five minutes before the cornmeal goes in, which infuses the water properly. Star anise is the defining flavour of akasan and it should be clearly present rather than a background note.
4. Pour the slurry into the boiling water in a slow steady stream while whisking constantly. Whisk without stopping from the moment it goes in, since the mixture thickens unevenly at first and lumps form in seconds. Keep the water at a boil as you pour, which cooks the starch immediately.
5. Cook it over a medium heat for fifteen to twenty minutes, stirring constantly. Cornmeal needs real cooking time to lose its raw, chalky taste, and undercooked akasan is unpleasant. Add hot water to loosen it if it has gone too far.
6. Take the pan off the heat before adding the evaporated milk. Adding milk to a furiously boiling pot risks it splitting, and the drink is already thickened so it needs no more cooking.
7. Stir it in gradually and return it to a very gentle heat to warm through. Add sugar to taste, which is usually a generous amount. Stir in the vanilla off the heat, since heat drives off its aroma. Add a grating of nutmeg and a little lime zest if you like.
8. Serve it hot in a mug, with more nutmeg grated over. It is also drunk cold, chilled and thinned with a little more milk, which is common in hot weather.

Technique

• The cornmeal must be mixed into cold water before it meets heat.
• Star anise is the defining flavour rather than a background note.
• It thickens considerably on standing and needs loosening to reheat.

Substitutions

• Fine yellow cornmeal, though white is traditional.
• Whole milk in place of evaporated, which is lighter.

Variations

• Served cold, which is common in hot weather.
• Made with coconut milk instead of dairy.
• With more cinnamon and less anise.

History

Cornmeal drink thickened with milk and spiced with star anise and cinnamon, drunk hot for breakfast.

Frequently asked questions

What is Akasan?

Akasan is a drink from Haiti: corn-flour shake with vanilla, star anise, milk. Cornmeal drink thickened with milk and spiced with star anise and cinnamon, drunk hot for breakfast.

How long does Akasan take to make?

Akasan takes 10 min of preparation and 25 min of cooking. The recipe makes 6 servings. It is rated easy to make.

What can I substitute in Akasan?

Yes, within limits. Fine yellow cornmeal, though white is traditional. Whole milk in place of evaporated, which is lighter.

What is the most important thing to get right in Akasan?

Use fine white cornmeal or corn flour rather than coarse polenta. Coarse meal stays gritty however long it cooks, and akasan should be smooth and slippery in the mouth. Whisk the cornmeal into the cold water until completely smooth before any heat is involved. Never add dry cornmeal to hot liquid, which seizes into lumps that no amount of whisking will disperse.