Zurbian

Ingredients

Meat

• 1.5 kglamb on the bone, in large pieces
• 2onions, sliced
• 6garlic cloves, crushed
• 5cm ginger, grated
• 3 tablespoonsghee

Spices

• 2 tablespoonshawaij or Yemeni spice mix
• 1 teaspoonturmeric
• 1 teaspoonground cumin
• 1 teaspoonground coriander
• 4cardamom pods
• 1cinnamon stick
• 4cloves
• 2bay leaves
• salt and black pepper

To build

• 500 gbasmati rice, soaked
• 600 gpotatoes, in thick wedges
• 300 gplain yoghurt
• a generous pinch of saffron, steeped in milk
• 3tomatoes, chopped
• a handful of coriander and mint, chopped
• oil, for frying the potatoes

To serve

• sahawiq, Yemeni chilli relish
• salad and yoghurt

Directions

1. Heat the ghee in a large heavy pot. Brown the lamb pieces well on all sides. Take the meat out and set it aside. Fry the onions in the same pot. Cook them slowly until deep golden brown. This takes a good fifteen minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for a minute. Add all the ground and whole spices. Fry them for a minute until fragrant.
2. Add the chopped tomatoes and cook them down. Return the lamb to the pot with any juices. Stir it in thoroughly before returning to the heat. Add enough water to nearly cover the meat. Season it well with salt and pepper. Simmering it takes about ninety minutes.
3. Bring it to a simmer and cover the pot. Let it cook gently on a low heat. Stir it once every twenty minutes. The lamb should become completely tender. Reduce it uncovered if there is too much liquid. A thin sauce makes soggy rice later. Cut the potatoes into thick wedges. Fry them in hot oil until golden outside. They should still be firm in the centre.
4. Drain them well on kitchen paper. Rinse the soaked rice until the water runs clear. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the rice and boil it for six minutes. The grains should be soft outside and firm within.
5. Drain it immediately in a colander. Take about a third of the drained rice. Pour the saffron milk over it and mix it through. Take a wide heavy pot with a tight lid. Spoon a layer of the meat and its sauce into the base. Arrange the fried potatoes over the meat. Spread the plain white rice over them.
6. Scatter the saffron rice over the top in patches. Do not mix the colours together. Scatter the chopped herbs over the surface. Cover the pot with a cloth-wrapped lid. Set the pot over the lowest possible heat. Use a heat diffuser if you have one. Steam it for thirty minutes without lifting the lid. Take it off the heat and let it stand ten minutes. Serving it is done on one large platter.
7. Turn the pot out onto a platter if you are confident. Otherwise lift it out in layers. Put the rice down first and the meat on top. Arrange the potatoes around the edge. Serve sahawiq, salad and yoghurt alongside. Leftovers keep for three days refrigerated.

Technique

• Zurbian is closely related to the biryani family that spread through Indian Ocean trade to Yemen, Oman and East Africa.
• The Adeni and Hadhrami versions differ in their spicing and in how much yoghurt is used.

Substitutions

• Chicken or beef can replace the lamb, with the cooking time adjusted accordingly.
• A ready-made Yemeni hawaij blend saves grinding your own spices.

Variations

• Some households add raisins and fried nuts to the layers.
• A version with more tomato and less yoghurt is made in some families.
• Mandi and haneeth are the other great Yemeni rice and meat dishes, cooked quite differently.

History

Spiced rice and meat with potato and yoghurt, brought by Indian Ocean trade to Aden and Hadhramaut.

Frequently asked questions

What is Zurbian?

Zurbian is a main from Yemen: adeni layered rice with lamb, potatoes, saffron and yoghurt. Spiced rice and meat with potato and yoghurt, brought by Indian Ocean trade to Aden and Hadhramaut.

How long does Zurbian take to make?

Zurbian takes 40 minutes of preparation and 2 hours of cooking. The recipe makes serves 8. It is rated hard to make.

What can I substitute in Zurbian?

Yes, within limits. Chicken or beef can replace the lamb, with the cooking time adjusted accordingly. A ready-made Yemeni hawaij blend saves grinding your own spices.

What is the most important thing to get right in Zurbian?

Scatter the saffron rice over the top in patches. Do not mix the colours together. Scatter the chopped herbs over the surface. Cover the pot with a cloth-wrapped lid. Set the pot over the lowest possible heat. Use a heat diffuser if you have one. Steam it for thirty minutes without lifting the lid. Take it off the heat and let it stand ten minutes. Serving it is done on one large platter.