Hunkar begendi

Ingredients

Lamb stew

• 1 kgboneless lamb shoulder, in 3 cm cubes
• 3 tbspbutter
• 1onion, finely chopped
• 3garlic cloves, crushed
• 2 tbsptomato puree
• 2tomatoes, grated
• 1green pepper, chopped
• 1 tspdried oregano
• 500 mllamb or beef stock
• salt and black pepper

Aubergine béchamel

• 5large aubergines
• 60 gbutter
• 60 gplain flour
• 600 mlwhole milk, warm
• 100 gkaşar or mild cheddar, grated
• juice of 1 lemon
• 1/4 tspgrated nutmeg
• salt and white pepper

To finish

• a handful of flat parsley, chopped

Directions

1. Prick each aubergine several times with a knife so steam can escape. Set them directly on a gas burner over a medium flame. Turn them with tongs every few minutes as the skin blisters and blackens. The skin should go completely black and start to collapse.
2. Put the charred aubergines in a bowl and cover it with a plate. Let them steam in their own heat for ten minutes. Leave every scrap of black skin behind, since it tastes bitter. Drop the flesh straight into a bowl of water with the lemon juice. The lemon water stops it going brown, which happens within minutes.
3. Let it sit for five minutes, then drain it thoroughly in a sieve. Press it gently to get the water out but do not squeeze it dry. Chop the drained flesh roughly with a knife. Do not blend it, since a smooth purée gives the wrong texture entirely.
4. Melt the butter in a heavy casserole over a medium-high heat. Brown the lamb in batches, giving each batch four minutes a side. Lift the browned lamb out and set it aside. Add the chopped onion and cook it for eight minutes until soft.
5. Add the garlic and the green pepper and cook them for three minutes. Stir in the tomato puree and cook it for two minutes until it darkens. Add the grated tomatoes and the oregano. Return the lamb with any juices and pour in the stock. Bring it to a bare simmer and cover the pan. Cook it for about ninety minutes, until the lamb gives under a spoon.
6. Check it occasionally and add hot water if it dries out. Take the lid off for the last twenty minutes. Let the sauce reduce until it coats the meat and does not run. Taste it and adjust the salt and pepper. Now the béchamel, which is made last so it is hot at the table.
7. Melt the butter in a wide heavy pan over a medium heat. Stir in the flour and cook the roux for two minutes. Keep it pale, since a browned roux gives the wrong colour here.
8. Pour in the warm milk in stages, whisking hard after each addition. Adding cold milk to hot roux is what makes lumps. Cook it for five minutes, whisking, until it thickens smoothly. Add the chopped aubergine flesh to the béchamel. Beat it in hard with a wooden spoon rather than a whisk.
9. Cook it over a low heat for eight minutes, beating regularly. Stir in the grated cheese and let it melt through. Season it with salt, white pepper and nutmeg. The finished purée should be thick enough to hold a spoon upright.
10. Spread the hot aubergine purée across a warm serving dish. Spoon the lamb and its sauce into the hollow. Do not stir them together, since the contrast is the whole dish. Scatter chopped parsley over the top. Serve it immediately, since the purée stiffens as it cools.

Technique

• Char the aubergines over a naked flame; oven roasting gives no smoke and misses the point.
• Prick them first, since an unpricked aubergine can burst over direct heat.
• Chop the flesh rather than blending it, as a smooth purée is the wrong texture.

Substitutions

• A charcoal grill in place of a gas burner, which is better still.
• Mild cheddar in place of kaşar.

Variations

• With beef in place of lamb.
• With chicken, which some restaurants now serve.
• The purée alone, served as a meze.

History

Ottoman palace dish whose name means the sultan liked it; tradition ties it to Empress Eugénie’s 1869 visit to Istanbul.

Frequently asked questions

What is Hunkar begendi?

Hunkar begendi is a main from Turkey: lamb stew spooned over smoky aubergine béchamel. Ottoman palace dish whose name means the sultan liked it; tradition ties it to Empress Eugénie’s 1869 visit to Istanbul.

How long does Hunkar begendi take to make?

Hunkar begendi takes 30 min of preparation and 2 hours of cooking. The recipe makes 6 servings. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Hunkar begendi?

Yes, within limits. A charcoal grill in place of a gas burner, which is better still. Mild cheddar in place of kaşar.

What is the most important thing to get right in Hunkar begendi?

Let it sit for five minutes, then drain it thoroughly in a sieve. Press it gently to get the water out but do not squeeze it dry. Chop the drained flesh roughly with a knife. Do not blend it, since a smooth purée gives the wrong texture entirely.