Bihari Kebab

Ingredients

Beef

• 1 kgbeef undercut or topside, in very thin strips
• 3 tablespoonsraw green papaya paste
• or 2 teaspoons meat tenderiser

Marinade

• 150 gplain yoghurt, strained
• 4 tablespoonsfried onion, crushed
• 2 tablespoonsginger and garlic paste
• 2 tablespoonsground red chilli
• 1 tablespoonground coriander
• 1 teaspoonground cumin
• 1/2 teaspoongaram masala
• 1/4 teaspoonground mace and nutmeg
• 4 tablespoonsmustard oil
• 2 tablespoonsgram flour, toasted
• 2 teaspoonssalt

To smoke

• 1 pieceof charcoal
• 1 teaspoonghee

To serve

• paratha or naan
• sliced onion and lemon
• green chutney
• raita

Directions

1. Use the quantity given and no more. Do not marinate beyond about twelve hours. Peel a piece of raw green papaya. Grate or blend it into a smooth paste. Use the flesh and a little of the skin. The slices must be genuinely thin.
2. Put the beef in the freezer for thirty minutes first. Firm meat is far easier to slice thinly. Cut it across the grain into wide thin strips. The strips should be almost translucent. Fry sliced onions until deep golden and crisp. Drain them thoroughly on kitchen paper.
3. Let them cool and then crush them to a coarse powder. Heat it until it just begins to smoke. Then take it off the heat and let it cool. Toast it in a dry pan for two minutes. It should smell nutty rather than raw. Put the strained yoghurt in a large bowl. Add the crushed fried onion to it. Add the ginger and garlic paste.
4. Add all the ground spices and the salt. Add the cooled mustard oil and the gram flour. Whisk it into a thick smooth paste. Marinating it needs some watching. Add the beef strips to the marinade. Work it in well with your hands. Every single strip must be coated.
5. Cover it and refrigerate it now. Six hours is enough and overnight is the maximum. Check the texture before cooking. The meat should feel soft but not slimy. Heat a piece of charcoal until it glows red. Set a small metal bowl in the middle of the marinated meat. Put the hot charcoal into that bowl. Pour a teaspoon of ghee over the charcoal.
6. Cover the bowl tightly with a lid immediately. Leave it for about ten minutes. Skewering it takes some practice. Thread each thin strip on in loose folds. Do not compress the meat hard. Let the charcoal burn down to grey ash. Lay the skewers over the hot coals.
7. Grill them for about three minutes on each side. The meat is thin and cooks very quickly. Baste them with a little mustard oil as they cook. They should be dark, slightly charred and juicy. Take them off before they dry out. Serving it is done immediately. Add sliced raw onion and a squeeze of lemon. Serve green chutney and raita alongside. Marinated meat keeps a day refrigerated.

Technique

• Bihari kebab was brought to Karachi by Urdu-speaking migrants from Bihar after 1947 and is now firmly a Karachi dish.
• Papain, the enzyme in raw green papaya, is a genuinely powerful tenderiser and is easy to overuse.

Substitutions

• Commercial meat tenderiser powder is the same enzyme and can replace papaya paste.
• Any neutral oil replaces mustard oil, though the pungency is lost.

Variations

• A mutton version is made and needs slightly longer on the fire.
• Some grills add a little kewra water to the marinade.
• Bihari boti uses cubes rather than thin strips.

History

Brought to Karachi by Urdu-speaking migrants from Bihar after 1947, and now a fixture of the city’s barbecue and wedding menus.

Frequently asked questions

What is Bihari Kebab?

Bihari Kebab is a main from Pakistan: papaya-tenderised beef strips grilled on skewers until smoky and soft. Brought to Karachi by Urdu-speaking migrants from Bihar after 1947, and now a fixture of the city’s barbecue and wedding menus.

How long does Bihari Kebab take to make?

Bihari Kebab takes 30 minutes plus overnight marinating of preparation and 20 minutes of cooking. The recipe makes serves 6. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Bihari Kebab?

Yes, within limits. Commercial meat tenderiser powder is the same enzyme and can replace papaya paste. Any neutral oil replaces mustard oil, though the pungency is lost.

What is the most important thing to get right in Bihari Kebab?

Use the quantity given and no more. Do not marinate beyond about twelve hours. Peel a piece of raw green papaya. Grate or blend it into a smooth paste. Use the flesh and a little of the skin. The slices must be genuinely thin.