Thandai

Ingredients

To soak and grind

• 80 galmonds
• 40 gcashews
• 2 tbspmelon seeds, magaz
• 2 tbspwhite poppy seeds, khus khus
• 2 tbspfennel seeds
• 1 tspblack peppercorns
• 8green cardamom pods
• 2 tbspdried rose petals

Milk

• 1.5 litreswhole milk
• 150 gsugar, or to taste
• a generous pinch of saffron

To finish

• 1 tbsprose water or kewra
• slivered pistachios
• plenty of ice

To serve

• cold, at Holi

Directions

1. Soak all the nuts and seeds together in warm water for at least 4 hours, or overnight. Soaking softens them so they grind to a smooth paste rather than a gritty one, and it also loosens the almond skins.
2. Peel the almonds after soaking, which is easy once they have swollen. Now the poppy seeds, which need particular attention. Soak them separately if you like, and grind them first on their own.
3. Grind it in stages, adding milk gradually, and take it as smooth as your grinder will manage. Traditionally this was done on a stone, and thandai shops in Varanasi still grind it by hand.
4. Add the saffron to a few spoonfuls of warm milk and let it bloom for 15 minutes. Blooming the saffron in warm milk draws out the colour and aroma, where threads thrown in dry do very little.
5. Whisk it in gradually rather than tipping it in, so it disperses rather than clumping. Now let it steep for at least 2 hours in the fridge, and longer is better.
6. Press the residue firmly, since a good deal of flavour stays in it. Add it off the heat and sparingly, since too much makes the whole thing taste of perfume. Now chill it thoroughly, for at least 3 hours.
7. Serve it over ice in tall glasses, with slivered pistachios and rose petals on top. The black pepper is deliberate and it should be just detectable, giving a faint warmth behind the sweetness.

Technique

• Ready-made thandai masala powder is widely sold and is a reasonable shortcut.
• Varanasi is particularly associated with thandai and with its bhang version.
• It settles on standing and needs stirring before serving.

Substitutions

• Shop-bought thandai masala, stirred into cold milk.
• Almond milk for a version without dairy.

Variations

• Made unstrained, for a thicker drink.
• As a kulfi or ice cream flavour, which is popular.
• Made with almond milk.

History

Drunk at Holi across north India; in Varanasi it is sometimes laced with bhang, a cannabis preparation.

Frequently asked questions

What is Thandai?

Thandai is a drink from India: cold milk ground with almonds, fennel, poppy seed, pepper and rose. Drunk at Holi across north India; in Varanasi it is sometimes laced with bhang, a cannabis preparation.

How long does Thandai take to make?

Thandai takes 20 min plus 4 hr soaking of preparation and 10 min of cooking. The recipe makes 6 glasses. It is rated easy to make.

What can I substitute in Thandai?

Yes, within limits. Shop-bought thandai masala, stirred into cold milk. Almond milk for a version without dairy.

What is the most important thing to get right in Thandai?

Soak all the nuts and seeds together in warm water for at least 4 hours, or overnight. Soaking softens them so they grind to a smooth paste rather than a gritty one, and it also loosens the almond skins.