Quesillo

Ingredients

Caramel

• 200 gsugar
• 3 tbspwater

Custard

• 5whole eggs
• 1 tin(397 g) sweetened condensed milk
• the same tin filled with whole milk
• 1 tbspvanilla extract
• 2 tbsprum (optional)
• a pinch of salt

Directions

1. Heat the sugar and water in the mould itself if it is flameproof, or in a small pan, without stirring, until it turns a deep amber. Swirl the pan rather than stirring — stirring crystallises it. Pour it into the mould and tilt to coat the base and part way up the sides. It sets hard within a minute; that is correct.
2. Heat the oven to 175°C (350°F) and put a roasting tin of hot water in it.
3. Blend the whole eggs, condensed milk, milk, vanilla, rum and salt for about 30 seconds. Whole eggs rather than yolks alone are what make a quesillo rather than a flan — the whites set firmer and hold the bubbles that give it its honeycombed texture.
4. Pour the custard over the set caramel through a sieve, to catch any chalaza. Cover the mould tightly with foil.
5. Bake in the water bath for 60–70 minutes, until the custard is set at the edges and has only a slight wobble at the centre. A knife inserted halfway between edge and centre should come out clean.
6. Cool completely, then refrigerate for at least 6 hours and preferably overnight. Turning it out warm will break it.
7. Run a knife round the edge, put a lipped plate over the mould and invert in one movement. The caramel will have liquefied and will run down over the custard.

Technique

• The bubbles are the point. Flan is made with extra yolks and baked slowly for a dense, smooth set; quesillo is deliberately blended and uses whole eggs, so it comes out spongy and full of small holes. Do not treat a hole-riddled quesillo as a failed flan.
• The water bath is what stops the outside setting into rubber before the middle has set at all. Do not skip it.
• Caramel goes from amber to bitter and black in seconds, and molten sugar burns badly. Take it off a shade lighter than you want.

Substitutions

• Evaporated milk in place of fresh gives a richer, denser result.
• Lime or orange zest in the custard is common.

Variations

• Venezuelan Christmas and birthday food. The Cuban and Puerto Rican flan de queso adds cream cheese; the Mexican flan napolitano is closer to a true flan.

History

Venezuelan caramel custard set with whole eggs rather than yolks alone, which leaves the bubbled, spongy texture that distinguishes it from flan.

Frequently asked questions

What is Quesillo?

Quesillo is a dessert from Venezuela: caramel flan made with condensed milk and whole eggs. Venezuelan caramel custard set with whole eggs rather than yolks alone, which leaves the bubbled, spongy texture that distinguishes it from flan.

How long does Quesillo take to make?

Quesillo takes 20 min of preparation and 1 hr 15 min of cooking. The recipe makes serves 10. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Quesillo?

Yes, within limits. Evaporated milk in place of fresh gives a richer, denser result. Lime or orange zest in the custard is common.

What is the most important thing to get right in Quesillo?

Heat the sugar and water in the mould itself if it is flameproof, or in a small pan, without stirring, until it turns a deep amber. Swirl the pan rather than stirring — stirring crystallises it. Pour it into the mould and tilt to coat the base and part way up the sides. It sets hard within a minute; that is correct.