Chawarma

Ingredients

Chicken and marinade

• 1 kgchicken thighs, boned and sliced thin
• 3 tbspyoghurt
• 2 tbsplemon juice
• 3 clovesgarlic, crushed
• 1 tspground cumin
• 1 tsppaprika
• 1 tspground coriander
• ½ tspground cinnamon
• ½ tspturmeric
• ¼ tspground cloves
• 2 tbspoil
• salt and black pepper

Garlic sauce

• 4 clovesgarlic
• ½ tspsalt
• 250 mlneutral oil
• juice of 1 lemon
• 1 tbspice water

To assemble

• 4large flatbreads
• 300 gpotatoes, cut into chips and fried
• ¼white cabbage, finely shredded
• 2tomatoes, sliced
• pickled cucumber
• harissa or piment

Directions

1. Marinate the chicken in the yoghurt, lemon, garlic, spices and oil for at least 4 hours.
2. For the garlic sauce, pound the garlic with the salt to a completely smooth paste. Any lump left behind will stop the emulsion forming at all.
3. Add the oil a few drops at a time to begin with, working constantly, then in a thin steady stream, alternating with a little lemon juice and finally the ice water, until it turns thick, white and fluffy.
4. This is an emulsion of garlic and oil with no egg in it whatsoever, and it splits at the slightest provocation. If it does split, start again with a fresh clove and beat the broken mixture into it drop by drop.
5. Grill or fry the chicken over a high heat in batches until charred at the edges and just cooked, then chop it roughly on the board.
6. Fry the chips separately and salt them well.
7. Warm the flatbread, spread it generously with the garlic sauce, and lay the chicken along the middle.
8. Put the chips inside the wrap rather than serving them alongside. This is exactly what distinguishes an Abidjan chawarma from a Levantine shawarma, and leaving them out makes a different sandwich.
9. Add the cabbage, tomato, pickles and harissa.
10. Roll it tight, then press it on a hot griddle or in a sandwich press for 2 minutes a side so the bread crisps and the wrap holds its shape.
11. Wrap it in paper and eat it immediately.

Technique

• The garlic sauce is worth the trouble. It is the flavour people come back for, and jarred mayonnaise is not the same thing.
• Chips inside, cabbage inside, and pressed shut at the end. Those three habits are what make it Ivorian.
• It was brought by Côte d’Ivoire’s long-established Lebanese community, and the stands now light up Abidjan after dark.

Substitutions

• Garlic mayonnaise if the toum defeats you, which is what a good many stands now use anyway.
• Lamb or thin-sliced beef in place of chicken.

Variations

• Chawarma assiette, served open on a plate with the chips on the side.
• With a fried egg added inside.
• With extra piment for those who want it fierce.

History

Brought by Cote d’Ivoire’s long-established Lebanese community, chawarma stands now light up Abidjan streets after dark and rival any local snack.

Frequently asked questions

What is Chawarma?

Chawarma is a street food from Côte d’Ivoire: grilled meat rolled in flatbread with fries, cabbage and garlic sauce. Brought by Cote d’Ivoire’s long-established Lebanese community, chawarma stands now light up Abidjan streets after dark and rival any local snack.

How long does Chawarma take to make?

Chawarma takes 30 min plus 4 hr marinating of preparation and 30 min of cooking. The recipe makes 4 wraps. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Chawarma?

Yes, within limits. Garlic mayonnaise if the toum defeats you, which is what a good many stands now use anyway. Lamb or thin-sliced beef in place of chicken.

What is the most important thing to get right in Chawarma?

Put the chips inside the wrap rather than serving them alongside. This is exactly what distinguishes an Abidjan chawarma from a Levantine shawarma, and leaving them out makes a different sandwich.