Bakoula

Ingredients

Greens

• 1.5 kgmallow leaves, khobiza
• or 1.5 kg spinach with a handful of parsley
• water, for washing and boiling

To cook

• 6garlic cloves, crushed
• 150 mlolive oil
• 1 teaspoonsweet paprika
• 1 teaspoonground cumin
• 1/2 teaspoonsalt
• a pinch of chilli, optional

To finish

• 1preserved lemon, rind only, finely chopped
• 100 gpurple or red olives
• juice of 1 lemon
• a handful of coriander, chopped
• a handful of parsley, chopped

To serve

• khobz, Moroccan bread

Directions

1. Pick the leaves off their stems. Discard any thick or woody stalks. Wash them in several changes of cold water. Lift them out of the water rather than pouring it off.
2. Repeat until the last water is completely clear. This takes longer than it sounds and matters. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Boil them for about ten minutes. They should be completely tender and dark.
3. Drain them thoroughly in a colander. Let them cool until you can handle them. Take handfuls and squeeze them hard. Press out as much water as you possibly can. Chop the squeezed greens finely with a knife. Heat the olive oil in a wide heavy pan.
4. Add the crushed garlic and cook it for thirty seconds. Do not let the garlic brown or it turns bitter. Add the paprika, cumin and salt. Fry the spices for a moment until fragrant. Add the chopped greens to the pan. Stir them through the spiced oil thoroughly. Let them cook over a medium heat. Give them about twenty-five minutes.
5. Stir them every few minutes as they cook. The greens gradually darken and dry out. Press the greens with the back of a wooden spoon. Work them against the base of the pan. Finishing it is done off the heat. Take the pan off the heat entirely. Stir in the chopped preserved lemon rind. Use only the rind and discard the salty pulp.
6. Squeeze in the fresh lemon juice. Add the chopped coriander and parsley. Stir in the olives whole or halved. Taste it and adjust the salt carefully. Spread it out on a shallow plate. Arrange a few extra olives over the surface.
7. Serve khobz alongside for scooping it up. It keeps four days covered in the refrigerator. Bring it back to room temperature before serving.

Technique

• Moroccan cooked salads are a category of small dishes served together at the start of a meal, and zaalouk and taktouka are among the others.
• Mallow is a common wild plant across the Mediterranean and has long been gathered as free food.

Substitutions

• Spinach is the usual substitute for mallow and needs less boiling.
• A mixture of spinach, chard and parsley gives a closer approximation of the flavour.

Variations

• Some households add a great deal more preserved lemon.
• A version cooked with more chilli is made in the south.
• Zaalouk, made with aubergine, is prepared in much the same way.

History

Made from wild mallow gathered after the winter rains, a free green that turned scarcity food into a standard Moroccan cooked-salad course.

Frequently asked questions

What is Bakoula?

Bakoula is a salad & side from Morocco: cooked mallow-leaf salad with preserved lemon, olives, garlic and paprika. Made from wild mallow gathered after the winter rains, a free green that turned scarcity food into a standard Moroccan cooked-salad course.

How long does Bakoula take to make?

Bakoula takes 40 minutes of preparation and 45 minutes of cooking. The recipe makes serves 6. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Bakoula?

Yes, within limits. Spinach is the usual substitute for mallow and needs less boiling. A mixture of spinach, chard and parsley gives a closer approximation of the flavour.

What is the most important thing to get right in Bakoula?

Pick the leaves off their stems. Discard any thick or woody stalks. Wash them in several changes of cold water. Lift them out of the water rather than pouring it off.