Zalabia

Ingredients

Batter

• 300 gplain flour
• 50 gcornflour
• 400 mlwarm water
• 1 tspinstant yeast
• 1 tbspsugar
• ½ tspsalt
• 1 tspbaking powder
• 2 tbspyoghurt, optional

Syrup

• 500 gsugar
• 300 mlwater
• 1 tbsplemon juice
• a generous pinch of saffron
• 4cardamom pods, crushed
• 1 tbsprosewater

To fry

• oil, for deep frying

To finish

• slivered pistachios
• dried rose petals, optional

Equipment

• a squeeze bottle or a piping bag with a small plain nozzle

To serve

• hot, at Ramadan night markets

Directions

1. Mix the flour, cornflour, yeast, sugar and salt with warm water into a smooth batter. Whisk it hard for a couple of minutes, which develops it and helps the texture. It should be the consistency of thick pouring cream, thin enough to pipe in a fine stream.
2. Add the baking powder just before frying, which gives extra lift. Now the syrup, which must be made first and cooled. Boil the sugar and water for 8 to 10 minutes until slightly thickened. Do not reduce it too far.
3. Add the lemon juice, which stops it crystallising. Bloom the saffron in a spoonful of warm water and add it with the crushed cardamom. Add the rosewater off the heat, since its aroma boils away. Hot pastry goes into cold syrup, and never hot into hot. Fill a squeeze bottle or piping bag with the batter.
4. Start at the centre and work outward in three or four concentric rings, then flick the nozzle away. Pipe in one continuous motion and keep the nozzle close to the surface.
5. Fry for about 90 seconds a side. Turn them once with tongs or chopsticks. They should be pale golden and crisp rather than deep brown, since they colour further in the syrup.
6. Lift them out and let them drain for only a few seconds. Now put them straight into the cold syrup while they are still hot. Transfer them immediately, since the temperature contrast is the whole technique. Turn them over and leave them for 30 seconds to a minute. Do not leave them soaking.
7. Lift them out onto a rack with tongs. Scatter pistachios and rose petals over while they are still tacky. Serve them hot or warm, within the hour.

Technique

• Jalebi, zoolbia and jeri are the same sweet across Iran, South Asia and Nepal.
• The batter is fermented, which gives the characteristic slight tang.
• They soften within an hour and are always fried to order.

Substitutions

• A squeeze bottle in place of a piping bag, which is easier.
• Honey thinned with water in place of sugar syrup.

Variations

• Piped in loose figure-of-eight shapes.
• With more saffron, for a deeper colour.
• Luqaimat, the fried dough balls served alongside.

History

Fried to order at Ramadan night markets in Manama and sold hot by the bag.

Frequently asked questions

What is Zalabia?

Zalabia is a street food from Bahrain: coils of batter fried crisp and soaked in saffron and cardamom syrup. Fried to order at Ramadan night markets in Manama and sold hot by the bag.

How long does Zalabia take to make?

Zalabia takes 20 min plus 1 hr rising of preparation and 25 min of cooking. The recipe makes about 30. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Zalabia?

Yes, within limits. A squeeze bottle in place of a piping bag, which is easier. Honey thinned with water in place of sugar syrup.

What is the most important thing to get right in Zalabia?

Add the baking powder just before frying, which gives extra lift. Now the syrup, which must be made first and cooled. Boil the sugar and water for 8 to 10 minutes until slightly thickened. Do not reduce it too far.