Masgouf

Ingredients

Fish

• 1whole carp, barbel or bream (2–2.5 kg), scaled, gutted and butterflied from the back with the belly left joined
• 2 tspcoarse salt

Basting mixture (dihin)

• 100 mlolive oil or sesame oil
• 3 tbsptamarind paste, or juice of 2 lemons
• 2 tbsptomato paste
• 6garlic cloves, crushed
• 1 tbspground turmeric
• 1 tbspcurry powder or baharat
• 1 tspground cumin
• 1 tspsalt
• 1 tspblack pepper

To finish and serve

• 3tomatoes, sliced
• 2onions, sliced
• 2green chillies, sliced
• 1 bunchflat-leaf parsley
• 2lemons, in wedges
• khubz tannour (flatbread)
• amba and pickled vegetables

Directions

1. Rinse in cold water, pat dry and salt the flesh lightly.
2. Leave 20 minutes.
3. Whisk the basting ingredients into a loose red paste and brush it over the cut flesh only, never the skin side. Build a wood fire, ideally apricot or citrus wood, and let it burn down until the flames are low and the coals are glowing.
4. Cook upright for 60–75 minutes, basting three or four times and turning the rack occasionally so the fish cooks evenly. The flesh should slowly go opaque and set, never sizzle hard.
5. Scatter the sliced tomato, onion and chilli over the flesh in the last 5 minutes so they wilt in the smoke.

Technique

• Masgouf means impaled or propped, and the upright slow roasting beside embers is what defines it. Cooking the fish flat on a grill from the start makes a good grilled fish but not masgouf.
• Freshwater carp is traditional and its slight muddiness is countered by the tamarind, turmeric and garlic in the baste. The fish is bought alive at the riverside restaurants.
• The heat must stay gentle. Too close to the fire and the outside chars while the thick shoulder is still raw; the whole point is a long, dry, smoky roast.
• Never baste the skin side. Oil dripping into the coals causes flare-ups that blacken the fish before it cooks.

Substitutions

• No carp: a whole sea bream, sea bass or grey mullet works, though it needs only 35–45 minutes upright as the flesh is finer.
• No wood fire: a covered charcoal kettle grill with the coals banked hard to one side and the fish standing on the cool side, lid on, is the closest home approximation. Add a chunk of fruitwood for smoke.
• Tamarind can be replaced by lemon juice plus a spoon of pomegranate molasses.

Variations

• Some Baghdad restaurants add a spoon of curry powder to the baste, a legacy of the British period; purists use only turmeric, salt and oil.
• Simach maskhuf served in the south around Basra often comes with a heavier tamarind glaze.
• A domestic oven version, cooked at 220°C (425°F) on a tray with the grill on at the end, is common in Iraqi homes without a garden.

History

Carp split open, propped on stakes around a fire and finished over embers; Baghdad’s Abu Nuwas street was lined with masgouf grills.

Frequently asked questions

What is Masgouf?

Masgouf is a main from Iraq: butterflied river carp slow-grilled upright by embers; Tigris riverside icon. Carp split open, propped on stakes around a fire and finished over embers; Baghdad’s Abu Nuwas street was lined with masgouf grills.

How long does Masgouf take to make?

Masgouf takes 30 min of preparation and 1 hr 30 min of cooking. The recipe makes 4 servings. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Masgouf?

Yes, within limits. No carp: a whole sea bream, sea bass or grey mullet works, though it needs only 35–45 minutes upright as the flesh is finer. No wood fire: a covered charcoal kettle grill with the coals banked hard to one side and the fish standing on the cool side, lid on, is the closest home approximation. Add a chunk of fruitwood for smoke. Tamarind can be replaced by lemon juice plus a spoon of pomegranate molasses.

What is the most important thing to get right in Masgouf?

Whisk the basting ingredients into a loose red paste and brush it over the cut flesh only, never the skin side. Build a wood fire, ideally apricot or citrus wood, and let it burn down until the flames are low and the coals are glowing.