Iskender kebab

Ingredients

Meat

• 1 kglamb leg, sliced very thin
• 1onion, grated and juiced
• 3 tbspolive oil
• 2 tspsalt
• 1 tspblack pepper
• 1 tspdried thyme
• 1 tsppaprika
• 100 mlmilk

Tomato sauce

• 400 gpassata
• 1 tbsptomato paste
• 1 tbspbutter
• 1 tspsalt
• 1 tspsugar

Base

• 2large pide breads, cut into cubes

To finish

• 120 gbutter
• 400 gthick strained yoghurt
• 2 tspdried mint
• 4mild green peppers, fried

Directions

1. Slice the lamb as thinly as you possibly can, against the grain.
2. Marinate it overnight in the grated onion juice, olive oil, milk and seasonings.
3. Onion juice rather than chopped onion. It tenderises without leaving pieces that burn on the grill, and the milk does the same job from the other side.
4. Grill the slices over charcoal, or sear them hard in a very hot dry pan in small batches.
5. Cook it in small batches on a fierce heat. Crowded, the meat releases water and stews grey instead of browning.
6. Simmer the passata with the tomato paste, butter, salt and sugar for 15 minutes until thick and glossy.
7. Cut the pide into cubes about 3 cm and toast them in the oven or a dry pan until dry and lightly golden.
8. Toast the bread properly. It has to stay recognisable under hot sauce and melted butter, and soft fresh bread turns to paste in seconds.
9. Spread the toasted bread over a warmed plate.
10. Lay the grilled meat over the bread.
11. Spoon the hot tomato sauce over the meat, not over the whole plate.
12. Now the butter, which is the signature. Melt it until it foams and just begins to brown, and pour it sizzling over everything at the table.
13. Pour the butter at the table and pour it hot enough to hiss. That moment is the dish, and butter added in the kitchen arrives dull and greasy.
14. Put a large spoonful of cold thick yoghurt on the side of the plate, never on top.
15. Cold yoghurt against hot meat and butter is the whole balance of it, and stirred in it just goes warm and thin.
16. Add a fried green pepper and a dusting of dried mint.
17. It was created in Bursa in 1867 by İskender Efendi, who laid döner over pide with tomato sauce and browned butter, and his family still trades there.

Technique

• Real döner off a vertical spit is the original; thin grilled slices are the practical home version.
• The name is a registered trademark in Turkey, which is why other restaurants sell it under other names.
• Serve it the moment the butter goes on. It does not wait.

Substitutions

• Beef or a lamb and beef mix, which is common.
• Any flatbread cut and toasted, in place of pide.

Variations

• Made with chicken döner.
• Bursa style, with more butter and less sauce.
• With a whole grilled tomato alongside the pepper.

History

Created in Bursa in 1867 by İskender Efendi, who laid döner over pide with tomato sauce and browned butter; his family still trades.

Frequently asked questions

What is Iskender kebab?

Iskender kebab is a main from Turkey: döner slices over pide with tomato sauce, melted butter and yogurt. Created in Bursa in 1867 by İskender Efendi, who laid döner over pide with tomato sauce and browned butter; his family still trades.

How long does Iskender kebab take to make?

Iskender kebab takes 30 min plus overnight marinating of preparation and 1 hr of cooking. The recipe makes 4 servings. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Iskender kebab?

Yes, within limits. Beef or a lamb and beef mix, which is common. Any flatbread cut and toasted, in place of pide.

What is the most important thing to get right in Iskender kebab?

Onion juice rather than chopped onion. It tenderises without leaving pieces that burn on the grill, and the milk does the same job from the other side.