Boko boko harees

Ingredients

Grain

• 400 gcoarse bulgur wheat
• or 400 g whole wheat berries, soaked overnight

Chicken

• 1whole chicken, jointed
• or 1 kg chicken thighs on the bone
• 2 litreswater
• 2 teaspoonssalt

Base

• 3onions, chopped
• 5garlic cloves, chopped
• 4cm ginger, grated
• 4 tablespoonsghee
• 2 teaspoonsground turmeric
• 1 teaspoonground cumin
• 1 teaspoonground coriander
• 1cinnamon stick
• 4cardamom pods
• black pepper

To finish

• 3 tablespoonsghee
• 2onions, fried until deep brown
• 1 teaspoonground cinnamon
• chopped coriander

Directions

1. Put the chicken pieces in a large pot. Add the water and the salt to it. Bring it slowly toward a simmer. Skim the grey foam off as it rises. Add the cinnamon stick and cardamom pods. Simmer it gently for about forty minutes. The chicken should be completely tender.
2. Lift it out and let it cool down. Keep every drop of the cooking liquid. Shredding the chicken is done by hand. Pull the meat off the bones in strips. Discard the skin and all the bones. Shred it finely with your fingers. Return the bones to the stock briefly for more flavour. Strain the stock and discard the bones.
3. Heat the ghee in a large heavy pot. Add the chopped onions to the pot. Fry them slowly for a good twelve minutes. They should soften and turn deep golden. Add the garlic and the grated ginger. Cook them for about two minutes. Add the turmeric, cumin and coriander. Fry the spices for one minute until fragrant.
4. Add the bulgur to the spiced onions. Stir it through until coated in the ghee. Pour in the reserved chicken stock. Add all of the shredded chicken. Bring the whole pot up to a simmer. Cover the pot and let it cook. Give it about one full hour there. Stir it every ten minutes without fail.
5. Add hot water whenever it thickens too far. Beating it smooth is what makes it harees. Press it against the side of the pot. Work it until the chicken breaks down completely. The meat and wheat should merge into one mass.
6. Beat it for a good ten minutes. It should become thick, smooth and stringy. Add hot stock if it is too stiff. Cook it down further if it is too loose. Taste it and adjust the salt generously. Fry the extra onions until deep brown and crisp.
7. Melt the remaining ghee separately. Spoon the harees onto a wide plate. Make a hollow in the middle with a spoon. Pour the melted ghee into that hollow. Scatter the fried onions over the top. Dust ground cinnamon over everything. Add plenty of chopped coriander. Serving it is always done hot.

Technique

• Harees is eaten across the Arabian Peninsula and the Levant, and the East African versions travelled inland with Omani and Swahili trade.
• Boko boko is the name used across much of East Africa for the same dish.

Substitutions

• Whole wheat berries give the most traditional texture but need overnight soaking and longer cooking.
• Beef or lamb can replace the chicken and need considerably longer cooking.

Variations

• Gulf harees is plainer and relies on wheat, meat and ghee alone.
• Some East African versions add more chilli.
• A vegetarian version made with wheat and pulses is also eaten.

History

An Arab dish, harees, of wheat pounded with chicken into a porridge, brought inland by Omani and Swahili traders from the Indian Ocean coast.

Frequently asked questions

What is Boko boko harees?

Boko boko harees is a main from Burundi: chicken slow-cooked with bulgur wheat and turmeric. An Arab dish, harees, of wheat pounded with chicken into a porridge, brought inland by Omani and Swahili traders from the Indian Ocean coast.

How long does Boko boko harees take to make?

Boko boko harees takes 20 minutes plus soaking of preparation and 2 hours of cooking. The recipe makes serves 6. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Boko boko harees?

Yes, within limits. Whole wheat berries give the most traditional texture but need overnight soaking and longer cooking. Beef or lamb can replace the chicken and need considerably longer cooking.

What is the most important thing to get right in Boko boko harees?

Add the bulgur to the spiced onions. Stir it through until coated in the ghee. Pour in the reserved chicken stock. Add all of the shredded chicken. Bring the whole pot up to a simmer. Cover the pot and let it cook. Give it about one full hour there. Stir it every ten minutes without fail.