Achar

Ingredients

Fruit

• 1 kgunripe green mango, or small limes
• 3 tbspsalt

Spice

• 3 tbspmustard seed, coarsely ground
• 2 tbspfenugreek seed, lightly roasted and ground
• 3 tbspchilli powder
• 1 tbspground turmeric
• 1 tbspfennel seed
• 1 tspasafoetida
• 2 tspsalt

Oil

• 300 mlmustard oil

Directions

1. Wash and dry the mangoes completely, then cut them into 2 cm pieces with the stone in — the stone holds the pieces together and adds flavour. Any water left on the fruit will spoil the jar.
2. Toss with the 3 tablespoons of salt and leave in a bowl for 24 hours, then drain off the liquid that collects.
3. Spread the pieces on a tray and dry in the sun for a day or two until the surfaces are dry to the touch and slightly shrivelled. This is the step that decides whether the jar keeps: any moisture left is where mould starts.
4. Heat the mustard oil until it smokes, then take it off the heat and let it cool completely. Heating drives off the raw pungency, and pouring smoking oil onto the spices burns them.
5. Mix the dried mango with all the ground spices and the remaining salt until every piece is coated.
6. Pack into a clean dry jar, pressing down, and pour over the cooled oil so the fruit is submerged with a 1 cm layer on top.
7. Leave in the sun for a week, shaking the jar daily, then store somewhere cool. It keeps a year and improves for the first few months.
8. Serve a small spoonful with rice, roti and curry.

Technique

• Everything must be bone dry — the fruit, the jar, the spoon. Water is the only thing that ruins an achar.
• Keep the fruit under the oil at all times, and use a dry spoon. A piece left exposed will mould and take the jar with it.
• Heat and cool the mustard oil. Raw mustard oil is harsh, and hot oil poured on spices makes the whole jar bitter.

Substitutions

• Small limes in place of mango, which need a longer salting — about a week.
• Sunflower oil if mustard oil is unavailable, though the flavour is noticeably flatter.
• A low oven at 60°C (140°F) with the door ajar in place of sun.

Variations

• The Fijian version is generally hotter than the Indian original.
• A quick fresh achar, eaten within days, skips the drying and the oil entirely.

History

Brought by indentured Indian labourers after 1879 and now made in Fijian households of every background.

Frequently asked questions

What is Achar?

Achar is a fermented & pickled from Fiji: green mango or lime cured with mustard oil, chilli and fenugreek. Brought by indentured Indian labourers after 1879 and now made in Fijian households of every background.

How long does Achar take to make?

Achar takes 40 min plus 2 days sun-drying and 1 week maturing of preparation and 10 min of cooking. The recipe makes fills a 1-litre jar. It is rated easy to make.

What can I substitute in Achar?

Yes, within limits. Small limes in place of mango, which need a longer salting — about a week. Sunflower oil if mustard oil is unavailable, though the flavour is noticeably flatter. A low oven at 60°C (140°F) with the door ajar in place of sun.

What is the most important thing to get right in Achar?

Everything must be bone dry — the fruit, the jar, the spoon. Water is the only thing that ruins an achar.