Klila

Ingredients

To make the soured milk

• 3 litreswhole milk, ideally raw or unhomogenised
• 3 tbsplive plain yoghurt or 200 ml lben, as the starter

To make the curd

• the soured milk from above
• 1 tspfine salt, plus more for the surface

Equipment

• a clean muslin cloth or fine cotton bag
• a wide shallow basket or tray for drying
• clean cheesecloth to cover against insects

Directions

1. Warm the milk to 30°C (85°F), stir in the yoghurt or lben, cover and leave at warm room temperature, about 22°C (70°F) to 25°C (75°F), for 24 to 36 hours until it has set to a firm, tangy clabber that smells clean and sharp.
2. Churn or whisk the soured milk hard for 10 minutes, then skim off the butter that gathers, if any; what remains is lben, the buttermilk Algerians drink.
3. Pour the lben into a heavy pot and heat very slowly to about 60°C (140°F), stirring gently, until the curd separates from the greenish whey; do not let it boil or the curd toughens into rubber.
4. Hold it at that temperature for 10 minutes, then take it off the heat and let it settle for 20 minutes.
5. Ladle the curd into a muslin-lined sieve, tie the cloth into a bag and hang it over a bowl to drain for 6 to 8 hours, until it stops dripping.
6. Turn the drained curd into a bowl, work in the teaspoon of salt, then crumble it between your fingers into pieces the size of a hazelnut.
7. Spread the crumbs in a single layer on a tray or basket, salt the surface lightly, and dry in full sun with a cloth over the top against insects, bringing them in at night.
8. Turn the crumbs twice a day and dry for 3 to 10 days, depending on heat, until they are rock hard, pale ivory and rattle on the tray. In an oven or dehydrator this takes 8 to 12 hours at 50°C (120°F).
9. Store in a sealed jar or cloth bag in a dry cupboard, and soak the crumbs in warm water for 20 minutes before crumbling them into stews, couscous or bourek filling.

Technique

• This is an acid-set curd made only by souring and heat, with no rennet at all, which is why klila is naturally suitable for vegetarians.
• The curd must be dried right through. Any piece that is still soft in the middle will mould and spoil the jar, so err on the side of over-drying.
• Use pasteurised milk with a live yoghurt starter if you cannot be sure of your raw milk supply. The souring stage relies on friendly bacteria winning quickly, and a clean strong starter is what guarantees that.
• Klila is a pastoral preserving technique of the high plateaux, made in spring when milk is plentiful, and eaten through the year.

Substitutions

• No raw milk: whole pasteurised milk plus a generous live yoghurt starter works, though the flavour is milder.
• Shop buttermilk can replace the souring stage entirely; heat it straight to 60°C (140°F) and continue from step three.

Variations

• Aoulou or takammart are related dried curds from other Amazigh regions, sometimes flavoured with dried herbs.
• Some households press the salted curd into small cones or discs instead of crumbs before drying.
• A fresh, undried version, jben, is eaten straight away with olive oil and bread.

History

A pastoral preservation method of the high plains, where surplus milk is soured, drained and sun-dried into hard curd.

Frequently asked questions

What is Klila?

Klila is a fermented & pickled from Algeria: dried crumbly curd made from soured milk, kept for months and cooked into stews. A pastoral preservation method of the high plains, where surplus milk is soured, drained and sun-dried into hard curd.

How long does Klila take to make?

Klila takes 30 min spread over three days of preparation and 1 hr, then 3 to 10 days drying of cooking. The recipe makes about 250 g dried curd from 3 litres of milk. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Klila?

Yes, within limits. No raw milk: whole pasteurised milk plus a generous live yoghurt starter works, though the flavour is milder. Shop buttermilk can replace the souring stage entirely; heat it straight to 60°C (140°F) and continue from step three.

What is the most important thing to get right in Klila?

Pour the lben into a heavy pot and heat very slowly to about 60°C (140°F), stirring gently, until the curd separates from the greenish whey; do not let it boil or the curd toughens into rubber.