Beriani Gam

Ingredients

Meat

• 1.5 kgchicken or mutton, in large pieces on the bone
• 300 gplain yoghurt
• 2 tablespoonsginger and garlic paste
• 2 teaspoonssalt

Spice paste

• 6shallots
• 6garlic cloves
• 4cm ginger
• 3 tablespoonsberiani spice mix
• or a mixture of ground coriander, cumin, fennel and pepper
• 1 teaspoonground turmeric
• 4 tablespoonsghee

Whole spices

• 1cinnamon stick
• 6cardamom pods
• 6cloves
• 2star anise
• 2bay leaves

Rice

• 800 gbasmati rice, soaked
• 2 litreswater
• 2 tablespoonssalt

To finish

• a generous pinch of saffron, steeped in warm milk
• 3 tablespoonsghee
• fried shallots
• chopped coriander and mint

To serve

• acar, pickled vegetables
• cucumber and tomato
• dalca or a light curry, optional

Directions

1. Put the meat into a large bowl. Add the yoghurt, ginger and garlic paste and salt. Mix it thoroughly with your hands. Cover it and refrigerate it for at least two hours.
2. Blend the shallots, garlic and ginger to a paste. Add a splash of water to help it turn. Blend it smooth with no fibres left. Heat the ghee in a large heavy pot. Add the whole spices and let them sizzle. Give them thirty seconds until fragrant.
3. Add the blended paste to the pot. Fry it for eight to ten minutes. Stir it constantly as it cooks. Oil pooling at the edges means it is ready. Add the ground spice mix and the turmeric. Fry them for one further minute.
4. Add the marinated meat with all its yoghurt. Turn it through the paste thoroughly. Cook it over a medium heat for ten minutes. Stir it often as the yoghurt is absorbed. Add a little water and cover the pot. Simmer chicken for about thirty minutes. Mutton needs an hour and a quarter or more.
5. Uncover the pot and raise the heat. Cook until almost no liquid remains. The gravy should cling thickly to the meat. Rinse the soaked rice until the water runs clear. Bring the water to a rolling boil with the salt. The water should taste noticeably salty. Add the drained rice to the pot. Boil it uncovered for six minutes only. The grains should be soft outside and firm within.
6. Drain it immediately in a colander. Spread the cooked meat evenly in the base. Spoon the parboiled rice over it in an even layer. Do not press the rice down at all. Scatter fried shallots and chopped herbs. Cover the pot with a tight lid. The steam must not escape at any point.
7. Set the pot over the lowest possible heat. Use a heat diffuser under it if you have one. Let it steam for thirty minutes undisturbed. Do not lift the lid at any point.
8. Take it off the heat and leave it sealed. Let it rest for ten more minutes. Serving it is done from the pot. Break the seal and lift the lid at the table. Lift the rice and meat out with a wide spoon. Work from the side so the layers stay visible. Do not stir it, which breaks the grains. Serve acar and fresh vegetables alongside. It keeps three days refrigerated.

Technique

• Biryani travelled through Indian Ocean trade routes into Southeast Asia, and Brunei, Malaysia and Singapore all have their own versions.
• Sealing the pot with dough, called dum, is the technique that distinguishes biryani from a pilaf.

Substitutions

• Ready-made biryani or beriani spice blends are sold in Malaysian and Indian shops.
• Beef can replace mutton, with the cooking time adjusted accordingly.

Variations

• A version with a wetter gravy is served in some households.
• Fish beriani is made along the Brunei coast.
• Nasi minyak is the simpler spiced rice served at the same occasions.

History

Brunei’s version of biryani, cooked dry with the pot sealed; a staple of weddings and royal occasions.

Frequently asked questions

What is Beriani Gam?

Beriani Gam is a main from Brunei: spiced rice baked with chicken or mutton until the gravy is absorbed. Brunei’s version of biryani, cooked dry with the pot sealed; a staple of weddings and royal occasions.

How long does Beriani Gam take to make?

Beriani Gam takes 45 minutes of preparation and 1 hour 30 minutes of cooking. The recipe makes serves 8. It is rated hard to make.

What can I substitute in Beriani Gam?

Yes, within limits. Ready-made biryani or beriani spice blends are sold in Malaysian and Indian shops. Beef can replace mutton, with the cooking time adjusted accordingly.

What is the most important thing to get right in Beriani Gam?

Blend the shallots, garlic and ginger to a paste. Add a splash of water to help it turn. Blend it smooth with no fibres left. Heat the ghee in a large heavy pot. Add the whole spices and let them sizzle. Give them thirty seconds until fragrant.