Nyonya Achar

Ingredients

Vegetables

• 500 gcucumber, seeded and cut in batons
• 300 gcarrot, in batons
• 300 gwhite cabbage, in wide pieces
• 200 glong beans, in lengths
• 3 tbspsalt

Spice paste

• 10dried chillies, soaked
• 6shallots
• 4 clovesgarlic
• 3cm fresh turmeric, or 1 tbsp ground
• 6candlenuts or macadamias
• 1 tbspbelacan, toasted
• 4 tbspoil

To finish

• 300 mlwhite vinegar
• 120 gsugar
• 100 groasted peanuts, coarsely ground
• 3 tbsptoasted sesame seeds

Directions

1. Toss the cut vegetables with the salt and leave in a colander for at least four hours, or overnight.
2. Squeeze them dry by the handful, then spread them on a tray to air-dry for an hour. Nyonya cooks traditionally sun-dry them for a few hours at this point, and the dryness is what keeps the finished achar crunchy for weeks rather than days.
3. Blend the soaked chillies, shallots, garlic, turmeric, candlenuts and belacan into a smooth paste.
4. Fry the paste in the oil over medium-low heat for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring often, until it darkens, thickens and the oil separates out and pools at the edges.
5. That split oil is the signal that the paste is properly cooked. Under-fried rempah tastes raw and sour and no amount of vinegar hides it.
6. Add the vinegar and sugar and bring to a boil, then take off the heat and cool completely.
7. Toss the dried vegetables through the cooled paste, then fold in the ground peanuts and sesame seeds.
8. Pack into jars, refrigerate, and leave two days before eating. It keeps a month and is better after the first week.

Technique

• Salt, squeeze and dry the vegetables. Skipping any of the three gives a watery jar.
• Fry the rempah until the oil separates. It is the single most important step and it takes longer than people expect.
• Add the peanuts and sesame at the end. Stirred in early they go soft.

Substitutions

• Vegetarian: leave out the belacan and add a little extra salt and a spoonful of soy.
• Cauliflower, pineapple or chayote in place of any of the vegetables.
• Cashews in place of candlenuts.

Variations

• The Malaccan version is sweeter; the Penang one hotter.
• Made in quantity for Lunar New Year and given away in jars.

History

A Peranakan pickle made in quantity for Lunar New Year, kept in jars and served with rich dishes.

Frequently asked questions

What is Nyonya Achar?

Nyonya Achar is a fermented & pickled from Singapore: cucumber, carrot and cabbage in turmeric vinegar with ground peanuts and sesame. A Peranakan pickle made in quantity for Lunar New Year, kept in jars and served with rich dishes.

How long does Nyonya Achar take to make?

Nyonya Achar takes 1 hour plus overnight salting and 2 days of preparation and 30 min of cooking. The recipe makes fills 2 × 500 ml jars. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Nyonya Achar?

Yes, within limits. Vegetarian: leave out the belacan and add a little extra salt and a spoonful of soy. Cauliflower, pineapple or chayote in place of any of the vegetables. Cashews in place of candlenuts.

What is the most important thing to get right in Nyonya Achar?

Squeeze them dry by the handful, then spread them on a tray to air-dry for an hour. Nyonya cooks traditionally sun-dry them for a few hours at this point, and the dryness is what keeps the finished achar crunchy for weeks rather than days.