Kiselo mlyako

Ingredients

Yoghurt

• 1 litrewhole milk
• 3 tbsplive Bulgarian yoghurt, as starter

To serve

• honey and walnuts, or
• cucumber, dill and garlic for tarator

Directions

1. Bring the milk slowly to 90°C (194°F), stirring so it does not catch, and hold it there for 5 minutes. Heating this high is what gives Bulgarian yoghurt its thickness: it unfolds the whey proteins so they lock into the curd rather than draining out as liquid.
2. Cool to 45°C (113°F) — warm on the wrist, not hot. Above 46°C (115°F) you kill Lactobacillus bulgaricus, which is the whole point of the culture.
3. Loosen the starter with a ladle of the warm milk, then stir it back through the pot.
4. Pour into jars or a bowl, cover, and wrap in a thick towel. Leave undisturbed somewhere warm for six to eight hours. Do not move or stir it while it sets — a jolted curd never firms up.
5. It is ready when it holds its shape as you tilt the jar and only a little whey shows at the edge. Longer gives more sourness, not more body.
6. Chill for at least four hours before eating. It thickens noticeably as it cools.
7. Eat cold with honey and walnuts, or thin it with water and ice into tarator with cucumber, dill and garlic.

Technique

• Save three spoonfuls to start the next batch. The culture keeps going indefinitely and gets better with use.
• The two temperatures are the recipe. Everything else is waiting.
• If it comes out thin, the milk was not taken high enough — not, as people usually assume, a problem with the culture.

Substitutions

• Any live yoghurt with Lactobacillus bulgaricus on the label as a starter.
• Sheep’s or buffalo milk, both traditional in Bulgaria and both giving a thicker, richer set.

Variations

• Drained through muslin overnight it becomes a thick strained yoghurt for spreading.
• Snezhanka is the same yoghurt drained hard and stirred with cucumber, garlic, dill and walnuts as a salad.

History

Bulgarian yoghurt is set with Lactobacillus bulgaricus, isolated in 1905 by Stamen Grigorov, whose work made the country’s yoghurt famous.

Frequently asked questions

What is Kiselo mlyako?

Kiselo mlyako is a cheese & dairy from Bulgaria: thick Bulgarian yoghurt of Lactobacillus bulgaricus fame. Bulgarian yoghurt is set with Lactobacillus bulgaricus, isolated in 1905 by Stamen Grigorov, whose work made the country’s yoghurt famous.

How long does Kiselo mlyako take to make?

Kiselo mlyako takes 10 min plus 6 to 8 hours setting of preparation and 15 min of cooking. The recipe makes makes 1 litre. It is rated easy to make.

What can I substitute in Kiselo mlyako?

Yes, within limits. Any live yoghurt with Lactobacillus bulgaricus on the label as a starter. Sheep’s or buffalo milk, both traditional in Bulgaria and both giving a thicker, richer set.

What is the most important thing to get right in Kiselo mlyako?

Bring the milk slowly to 90°C (194°F), stirring so it does not catch, and hold it there for 5 minutes. Heating this high is what gives Bulgarian yoghurt its thickness: it unfolds the whey proteins so they lock into the curd rather than draining out as liquid.