Jarma

Ingredients

Grain

• 200 gwhole barley grains
• 2 litreswater
• 1 tspsalt

To sour

• 300 mlayran, katyk or plain live yoghurt
• or a cupful of jarma from a previous batch

To serve

• cold water, to thin
• ice
• a little more salt

Equipment

• a heavy dry frying pan
• a grain mill, or a spice grinder

Directions

1. Rinse the barley grains and spread them out to dry on a cloth. The grains must be dry before toasting or they will steam instead. Heat a heavy dry pan over a medium heat with no fat in it. Add the barley in a single layer. Stir it constantly with a wooden spoon.
2. Toast it for about ten minutes until it turns golden brown. Do not let it go dark brown, since burnt grain makes the whole drink bitter. Tip it straight onto a cold tray to stop the cooking. Let it cool completely before grinding. Grind the cooled grain in a mill or a spice grinder.
3. Work in small batches so the grinder does not overheat. Sieve out any large pieces and grind them again. Toasted ground barley of this kind is called talkan and is sold ready-made.
4. Bring the two litres of water to the boil in a heavy pot. Add the salt and lower the heat to a simmer. Keep whisking for the first two minutes until it is smooth. Simmer it for thirty minutes, stirring every few minutes. It will thicken to a thin porridge.
5. Take the pot off the heat and let it cool to room temperature. Stir it occasionally as it cools so no skin forms. It must be properly cool, since hot liquid kills the culture you add next.
6. Stir the ayran or live yoghurt into the cooled barley. Cover the pot with a cloth rather than a lid. Leave it at room temperature for eight to twelve hours. In warm weather it sours faster, so taste it after six hours.
7. Discard it if it smells putrid rather than cleanly sour. Now serving, which is done very cold and thinned. Chill it thoroughly, for at least four hours. Thin it with cold water to the consistency you want.
8. Stir it well before pouring, since the grain settles. Taste it and add a little more salt, which sharpens it. Serve it in tall glasses over ice. It keeps for about four days in the fridge and grows sourer each day.

Technique

• Stop toasting at golden brown, since burnt grain makes the whole drink bitter.
• Cool the porridge completely before adding the culture, or you kill it.
• It thickens hard in the fridge and is thinned with cold water at serving.

Substitutions

• Ready-made talkan, which is sold as toasted ground barley.
• Plain live yoghurt in place of ayran or katyk.

Variations

• Maksym, the related drink, made with a wheat and millet mix.
• Made thicker and eaten with a spoon.
• With a little sugar, though salt is traditional.

History

Fermented barley drink sold beside maksym; the grain is toasted, ground and left to sour.

Frequently asked questions

What is Jarma?

Jarma is a drink from Kyrgyzstan: cool barley drink thickened with ground grain and soured milk. Fermented barley drink sold beside maksym; the grain is toasted, ground and left to sour.

How long does Jarma take to make?

Jarma takes 20 min of preparation and 40 min of cooking. The recipe makes 2 litres. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Jarma?

Yes, within limits. Ready-made talkan, which is sold as toasted ground barley. Plain live yoghurt in place of ayran or katyk.

What is the most important thing to get right in Jarma?

Rinse the barley grains and spread them out to dry on a cloth. The grains must be dry before toasting or they will steam instead. Heat a heavy dry pan over a medium heat with no fat in it. Add the barley in a single layer. Stir it constantly with a wooden spoon.