Xawaash

Ingredients

Seeds

• 4 tablespoonscumin seeds
• 4 tablespoonscoriander seeds
• 1 tablespoonblack peppercorns

Warm spices

• 2cinnamon sticks, broken up
• 1 tablespoongreen cardamom pods
• 1 teaspoonwhole cloves

To finish

• 1 tablespoonground turmeric
• 1 teaspoonground ginger, optional

Equipment

• a heavy dry pan
• a spice grinder or a heavy mortar

Directions

1. Adjust it to your own taste once you have made it. Ready-ground spices lose their oils within weeks. Crush one seed between your fingers before buying. It should smell sharp and immediate.
2. Heat a heavy dry pan over a medium heat. Add the cumin and coriander seeds first. They are the largest and need the longest. Shake the pan constantly as they heat. After a minute they will start to smell fragrant. Toast everything together for another minute.
3. Add the cardamom and cloves at the very end. Those two burn fastest and need the least time. Tip them out of the pan immediately. A hot pan keeps cooking them even off the heat.
4. Spread them on a plate to cool. Warm spices turn oily and clog a grinder. Give them at least fifteen minutes.
5. Work in small batches for an even grind. Grind everything to a fine powder. Sieve the powder and regrind what is left behind. Turmeric burns very easily in a dry pan.
6. Mix everything thoroughly until the colour is even. Storing it keeps it usable for months. Put it in a sealed jar away from light and heat. It stays good for about three months.
7. Make small batches often rather than one large one. Fry it briefly in oil with onion to open the flavour.

Technique

• Xawaash simply means spices in Somali, in the same way that baharat does in Arabic.
• It belongs to a family of Indian Ocean blends that includes berbere in Ethiopia and various Yemeni mixes.

Substitutions

• Ready-ground spices can be used and skip the toasting, though the blend will be much weaker.
• Ready-made xawaash is sold in Somali shops and is a reasonable shortcut.

Variations

• Some families add nutmeg or fenugreek.
• A version without turmeric is used for lighter dishes.
• Some households make a hotter version with dried chilli ground in.

History

The blend is the backbone of Somali cooking and reflects Indian Ocean spice trade; families toast and grind their own proportions.

Frequently asked questions

What is Xawaash?

Xawaash is a sauce & condiment from Somalia: house spice mix of cumin, coriander, cinnamon, cardamom and clove. The blend is the backbone of Somali cooking and reflects Indian Ocean spice trade; families toast and grind their own proportions.

How long does Xawaash take to make?

Xawaash takes 15 minutes of preparation and 5 minutes of cooking. The recipe makes about 150 g. It is rated easy to make.

What can I substitute in Xawaash?

Yes, within limits. Ready-ground spices can be used and skip the toasting, though the blend will be much weaker. Ready-made xawaash is sold in Somali shops and is a reasonable shortcut.

What is the most important thing to get right in Xawaash?

Make small batches often rather than one large one. Fry it briefly in oil with onion to open the flavour.