Tahdig

Ingredients

Rice

• 500 gaged basmati or Iranian rice
• 3 tbspsalt, for the soaking water
• 3 litreswater
• 2 tbspsalt, for boiling

Tahdig layer

• 4 tbspneutral oil
• 60 gbutter, melted
• 3 tbspplain full-fat yoghurt
• ½ tspsaffron threads, ground with a pinch of sugar and steeped in 60 ml hot water
• 2 tbspwater

Optional bases

• 2waxy potatoes, peeled and sliced into 5 mm rounds
• 2 sheetslavash or thin flatbread
• 1 tspcumin seeds

Directions

1. Rinse the rice in cool water five or six times until the water runs clear, then soak it in heavily salted water for at least 2 hours. Salted soaking firms the grain so it stays separate.
2. Boil the 3 litres of water with 2 tbsp salt. Drain the rice, add it and boil hard for 5–7 minutes, until a grain crushed between the fingers is soft outside with a firm white core. This is the moment; a minute more and the tahdig will be mushy.
3. Drain into a wide colander and rinse briefly with tepid water to stop the cooking.
4. Mix the yoghurt, 2 tbsp of the saffron water, the oil, 2 tbsp water and about 300 g of the parboiled rice into a loose batter.
5. Heat a heavy non-stick pot with the remaining oil until it shimmers, then spread the yoghurt-rice mixture evenly across the bottom and 2 cm up the sides. If using potato or lavash, lay it in the hot oil first instead.
6. Mound the remaining rice on top loosely in a pyramid shape, never pressing it down, and poke five holes down to the base with the handle of a wooden spoon so steam can escape.
7. Drizzle with the melted butter, wrap the lid in a clean tea towel and clamp it on, then cook on medium-high heat for 8–10 minutes until you hear it sizzle and smell toasting rice.
8. Turn the heat to the lowest possible setting, put the pot on a heat diffuser and steam for 45–50 minutes without lifting the lid.
9. Sit the base of the pot in 2 cm of cold water for 2 minutes to release the crust, then invert the whole pot onto a wide platter in one confident movement. The tahdig should come out as a single golden disc, crackling as it cools.
10. Streak some of the rice with the remaining saffron water and pile it around the broken crust.

Technique

• Tahdig is the prize of the Persian table and is always divided among the guests. The crust wants deep gold, not brown; scorched tahdig tastes acrid.
• The towel around the lid absorbs condensation. Without it, water drips back and the rice becomes sticky and the crust soggy.
• Yoghurt tahdig is richest and most tender, potato tahdig the most reliable for beginners, lavash the thinnest and crispest.
• Non-stick is a modern concession. Iranian cooks traditionally use heavy aluminium and rely on enough oil and correct heat.

Substitutions

• No saffron: turmeric gives colour but not perfume; it is better to serve the tahdig plain than to fake saffron.
• Yoghurt can be replaced by 2 beaten eggs mixed with the rice for a firmer, crisper crust.
• Aged basmati is best; new-crop rice absorbs too much water and refuses to crisp.

Variations

• Tahdig-e sibzamini, made with potato slices, is the most common in home kitchens.
• Tahdig-e nan, made with lavash, is the lightest and shatters like a wafer.
• Tahchin bakes the saffron-yoghurt rice as a solid cake and is turned out whole, crust and all.

History

The crisp golden crust at the bottom of the rice pot, made from rice, bread or potato and served in shards.

Frequently asked questions

What is Tahdig?

Tahdig is a salad & side from Iran: coveted golden crust from the rice pot, sometimes potato or lavash. The crisp golden crust at the bottom of the rice pot, made from rice, bread or potato and served in shards.

How long does Tahdig take to make?

Tahdig takes 20 min of preparation and 2 hr soaking + 1 hr 15 min of cooking. The recipe makes 6 servings. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Tahdig?

Yes, within limits. No saffron: turmeric gives colour but not perfume; it is better to serve the tahdig plain than to fake saffron. Yoghurt can be replaced by 2 beaten eggs mixed with the rice for a firmer, crisper crust. Aged basmati is best; new-crop rice absorbs too much water and refuses to crisp.

What is the most important thing to get right in Tahdig?

Mound the remaining rice on top loosely in a pyramid shape, never pressing it down, and poke five holes down to the base with the handle of a wooden spoon so steam can escape.