Leipäjuusto

Ingredients

Cheese

• 4 litreswhole milk
• ¼ tspcalcium chloride in 2 tbsp water, if using shop milk
• ½ tspliquid rennet in 50 ml cool water
• 1 tspsalt

To serve

• cloudberry jam
• hot coffee

Directions

1. Warm the milk to 38°C (100°F) and stir in the calcium chloride if using pasteurised shop milk.
2. Stir in the diluted rennet, stop the milk moving and leave undisturbed for 30 to 40 minutes until it gives a clean break.
3. Cut the curd into 2 cm cubes and leave 10 minutes, then stir gently for 10 minutes.
4. Drain the curd in a muslin-lined colander for an hour, then work the salt through it and press it firmly by hand into a flat round about 2 cm thick in an ovenproof dish or a heavy pan.
5. Grill under a very hot grill or in a heavy pan for 4 to 6 minutes a side, until the surface blisters and chars in patches. The brown spots are the point — leipäjuusto means bread cheese for the way it looks, and a pale one is undercooked.
6. It will squeak against the teeth while warm and stop squeaking as it cools, which is normal.
7. Serve warm, cut in wedges, with cloudberry jam, or cut into a mug of hot coffee and eaten with a spoon once it softens.

Technique

• Press the round firmly before grilling. A loosely packed curd falls apart under the heat.
• Let it char properly. Timid grilling gives a bland cheese; the blistered patches are most of the flavour.
• It is at its best within a few hours. Reheat it in a hot oven for a few minutes to bring back the squeak.

Substitutions

• Vegetarian microbial rennet, which works well.
• Colostrum, which is the traditional milk and sets far firmer — almost nobody has access to it now.
• Lingonberry or raspberry jam if there are no cloudberries.

Variations

• Baked in a hot oven rather than grilled, which colours it more evenly.
• Cubed into coffee as kaffeost, which is how it is eaten in northern Sweden too.

History

Fresh cheese from Ostrobothnia and Kainuu baked until it squeaks, once made from colostrum and eaten warm with cloudberry jam.

Frequently asked questions

What is Leipäjuusto?

Leipäjuusto is a cheese & dairy from Finland: squeaky grilled ‘bread cheese’ with cloudberry jam. Fresh cheese from Ostrobothnia and Kainuu baked until it squeaks, once made from colostrum and eaten warm with cloudberry jam.

How long does Leipäjuusto take to make?

Leipäjuusto takes 30 min plus 1 hour draining of preparation and 30 min of cooking. The recipe makes makes one 20 cm round. It is rated medium to make.

What can I substitute in Leipäjuusto?

Yes, within limits. Vegetarian microbial rennet, which works well. Colostrum, which is the traditional milk and sets far firmer — almost nobody has access to it now. Lingonberry or raspberry jam if there are no cloudberries.

What is the most important thing to get right in Leipäjuusto?

Grill under a very hot grill or in a heavy pan for 4 to 6 minutes a side, until the surface blisters and chars in patches. The brown spots are the point — leipäjuusto means bread cheese for the way it looks, and a pale one is undercooked.