The dried unripe berry of a Caribbean tree that tastes, as its name promises, of cinnamon, clove and nutmeg at once — the spice of Jamaican jerk, of pickling brines and of Scandinavian and Middle Eastern meat dishes.
Where it comes from
Allspice is one of the very few spices native to the New World and the only one that has never been grown successfully far from it. The tree grows in Jamaica, Central America and southern Mexico; Columbus’s men took the berries for pepper — pimienta — which is why it is still pimento in Jamaica and pimienta gorda in Mexico. The berries are picked green and dried until they turn brown and rattle.
Jamaica made it its own: the berries and the wood of the tree together are the flavour of jerk, the meat marinated with allspice, Scotch bonnet and thyme and smoked over pimento wood. It travelled early to northern Europe, where it went into Swedish meatballs, Danish liver pâté and Polish and Russian pickles and marinades, and to the Ottoman world, where it is in Turkish and Levantine kofte and stuffed vegetables.
Varieties
- Whole allspice (pimento berries) — Round, brown, slightly larger than a peppercorn. For brines, marinades, stews and pickles; grind as needed.
- Ground allspice — In Jamaican jerk seasoning, Middle Eastern baharat, Caribbean and northern European sausages and baking.
- Pimento wood and leaves — Used in Jamaica for smoking jerk; the leaves are used like bay.
In the kitchen
A few whole berries in a brine, a pickling liquid, a stock or a pot of braised meat, taken out before serving; ground allspice in a rub, a meatball mix, a stuffing or a spiced cake. It behaves like a warmer, rounder clove and is used in somewhat larger amounts — a teaspoon of ground allspice where a pinch of clove would do.
It is the backbone of jerk and belongs with Scotch bonnet, thyme, spring onion and lime. In Levantine cooking it is often the only spice in a kofte or a stuffed courgette, with black pepper; in Scandinavia it is in the pickling spice and the meatball.
Choosing and keeping
Whole berries keep their flavour for years; they should be brown, whole and strongly scented when crushed. Ground allspice fades within months.
Jamaican allspice is considered the finest, with the highest oil content; Central American berries are larger and milder.
Dishes with allspice
Pierniki toruńskieSpiced honey gingerbread pressed in carved moulds, sometimes glazed
Ayote en mielSquash candied in raw cane-sugar syrup
Corn soupSplit-pea and corn-cob soup, late-night street staple
Vereshchakapork ribs stewed in dark rye-kvass gravy
Mountain chickenCrapaud frog legs stewed creole-style; historic national dish, now rare
Sujukflat spiced cured sausage of beef and lamb, grilled or fried with eggs
Moussakabaked layers of aubergine, spiced lamb mince, béchamel
Cow foot soupGelatinous stewed cow's feet with yam, cassava and dumplingsAllspice is tagged on 157 dishes from 62 countries in the atlas. These notes are written from general knowledge and carry no per-fact citation — see About.